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  1. #21
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM2N View Post
    So to do this I would put my negative in the enlarger and project the image onto the easel at the size i wanted, say 8x10 then turn the enlarger off place the ortho paper into the easel and project the image onto the Ortho paper then develop the ortho paper as per the directions. I now have a positive on the ortho paper. I would then contact print the ortho paper with another piece of ortho paper to make an 8x10 negative. Then use the resulting negative to make a cynatype or other alternative process.
    Thank you for your time!
    That's it, except it's ortho film, not paper.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  2. #22
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Does anyone use transparency film in the enlarger to create a larger monochrome negative for contact printing?

    It's something I have thought about but have not done yet.

    Obviously ortho film would not give a true rendition of the colours but it could be done with panchromatic film.


    Steve.

  3. #23
    KWhitmore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post
    Does anyone use transparency film in the enlarger to create a larger monochrome negative for contact printing?

    It's something I have thought about but have not done yet.

    Obviously ortho film would not give a true rendition of the colours but it could be done with panchromatic film.


    Steve.
    I've made paper negatives from using slides in my enlarger. I've only done this process twice I think, (MY results were not that super) so keep this in mind.
    Some details were lost in both the shadows and the whites. The image ended up being a bit soft as well which may or may not be what you like. I've read that the key to a good paper negative is to print it a bit darker and duller than you would a normal print.
    That way you'll get more detail from your final contact print. As for the softness, it can work well if you choose the right image. A good contact print frame will help also. (I used 2 sheets of glass taped together and RC paper) It's a fun process nevertheless.

    Kathy

  4. #24
    davido's Avatar
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    A good friend of mine was using colour transparency slides to make enlarged lith negatives. they worked quite well being as they were already lower in contrast. they also had a softness to them, which worked with the image (angel statues). I have been shooting B&W transparency (ie Scala) for a while, to skip the inter-positive step. I've done one negative from a colour slide and it seemed o.k. but perhaps not as sharp as one from a b&w neg? but that could work to one's advantage.
    david

  5. #25
    Akki14's Avatar
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    Hm I tried rather high concentration Rodinal and I still am getting too low of contrast. Any suggestions? The shadows keep fogging up before the highlights get dense enough. I'll try printing them as cyanotype anyway, hopefully they'll still work out okay. Might well try paper developer next.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1010082.JPG   P1010083.JPG   P1010084.JPG  
    Last edited by Akki14; 10-02-2007 at 01:27 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    ~Heather
    oooh shiny!
    http://www.stargazy.org/

  6. #26
    gr82bart's Avatar
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    Way to go Heather! This stuff can be addictive though, so pace yourself!

    Regards, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  7. #27
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akki14 View Post
    Hm I tried rather high concentration Rodinal and I still am getting too low of contrast. Any suggestions?
    Ditch the Rodinal and use HC-110 dil. B or use a pyro developer to soup the enlargered negative. I don't know why your shadows are fogging.
    Don Bryant

  8. #28

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    Steve,

    I've made a number of enlarged negatives from slides (transparencies) directly onto Freestyle's Arista APHS ortho litho film. The enlarged negatives were developed in Dektol 1+9, and were quite suitable for cyanotype and van dyke prints. I would say that 1 out of 10 negatives would have too much contrast, but the vast majority were fine.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Akki14 View Post
    Hm I tried rather high concentration Rodinal and I still am getting too low of contrast. Any suggestions? The shadows keep fogging up before the highlights get dense enough. I'll try printing them as cyanotype anyway, hopefully they'll still work out okay. Might well try paper developer next.
    How Dark is your darkroom? ...the fogging could be from stray light leaking out of the enlarger? One of the negatives looks like there if fogging in the image area but not on the edges that were covered up by the film holders.

    Otherwise I might reduce exposure and drastically increase development, maybe by 100% or more

    It might seem strange, but I have found that exposure seems to have a relatively wide latitude and development (contrast control) also works kind of slowly.

    Good Luck!

    Corey

  10. #30
    Akki14's Avatar
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    I loaded the film holders in the same darkroom and I exposed immediately after I got them loaded.. there was lots of faffing around with loading them but none of the edges are fogged even with me poking and prodding them for ages trying to get them into the holders. I taped up every bit of the enlarger and i only have it on when I'm actually exposing the film. I'm pretty confident that the darkroom is indeed very dark, pitchblack, cannot see my hand in front of my face.
    I might try the lower dilution of Rodinal... Massive Dev Chart probably doesn't really expect anyone to do 1+25 for 3.5minutes.
    ~Heather
    oooh shiny!
    http://www.stargazy.org/

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