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  1. #111
    RobertP's Avatar
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    Scott, Also the sugar developers have a little more of a syrup like consistency which makes it somewhat easier flowing it across the plate compared to the standard ferrous sulphate developers. At least it seems that way in my limited experience.

  2. #112
    smieglitz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schrochem View Post
    Thanks for the responses. I went back and looked at some of you pics Joe because I remembered seeing your helper tray (not sure where I got 'keeper tray' lol!). It looks just like a simple low walled tray. Any advantage of that over the way Coffer made his?...
    Well I don't know why John's trays have such low sides and IIRC, they only have three walls. Maybe it is a period thing.

    I built mine with walls that are about 3/4" high. They have a second piece of acrylic glued on the right side to form a ledge slightly higher than the level of the glass. A hole is centered in the area where the plate will rest and I smeared some acrylic cement over that surface to make it slightly uneven. So, a finger can be pushed from below and easily break the tension holding the plate to the tray.


    A top view

    In use the plate is placed in the tray and the tray tilted to the right. I pour the developer onto the ledge and let it level. Then I quickly tilt the tray back to the left and the developer flows evenly off the ledge and over the plate. If it looks like I might get an island, the tray allows me to violently move the plate horizontally to cover the spot without the plate flying off into space or the developer being spilled.

  3. #113
    schrochem's Avatar
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    Thanks for the added information fellas.
    So what's the sugar developer formula?
    Kerik...ouch on the AgNO3!
    Joe, I like your design of the helper tray. It seems to utilized the tilt tray method without using too much developer.
    In Coffer's manual, he has helper trays for small plates that just have low sides and a hole. For larger plates he has three higher walls and one wall low. The low wall allows him to put his beaker close to the plate and flow it on. He also mentions that he puts a piece a thin glass or plexi to keep the plate off the bottom instead of hole.
    Do you lose much developer on the larger helper with a hole?

  4. #114
    RobertP's Avatar
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    http://www.apug.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1193228247 ... Its not so much as losing the developer as it is the mess that much developer will cause. This is an 11x14 helper tray. The small piece of plexi that holds the plate up off the bottom slightly is 1/16 thick all other pieces are 1/4". Robert
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCN0010_1.jpg  

  5. #115
    RobertP's Avatar
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    http://www.apug.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1193228723... Maybe this is a little better view
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCN0010_1.jpg  

  6. #116
    RobertP's Avatar
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    This is a Coffer designed tray. The idea is that this creates a small ledge on the open end that keeps just enough of the developer on the plate. It works pretty well.
    Last edited by RobertP; 10-24-2007 at 08:57 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #117
    RobertP's Avatar
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    Scott there is a sugar developer formula in your Coffer manual. Look in the Addendum.

  8. #118
    schrochem's Avatar
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    Thanks Robert! I found the sugar formula. I knew I had seen it somewhere. Based on what yall have said and Coffer says in his manual, I think I'll use the sugar developer. Once I start, I plan to keep the chemistry the same until I get the technique down.
    Thanks also for posting a pic of your tray. So do you apply the developer like coffer explained? That being across the end, down and swoosh to the back corner? That sounds more difficult (for a beginner) than the way Joe's tilt/helper method 'appears' to work.

  9. #119
    schrochem's Avatar
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    I have a question again about how the collodion sees colors. Specifically in landscapes.
    As we head into winter (if you want to call it that where I live) the muted colors have we me wondering how all this will appear on the plate. I can 'see' how the reds are going to go dark and the blues light but how bout in between? I'm specifically interested in the greens and yellows.
    Kerik, if you check back in on this thread, I'd be interested in what the colors were like in your recent post of gualala trees. Are the dark trees mostly a green pine like leaves? What color are the fern looking plants in the lower left of the horiz. version?
    Muchas gracias,
    Scott

  10. #120
    RobertP's Avatar
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    Scott, Yes that is exactly how I do it. I also started with the tip tray method and it worked fine. Once you get use to the helper tray I think you'll like the results. It is like everything else, you just need to get a feel for it. Don't be afraid to use a little extra developer when you first start. You'll find your way what ever method you use. Whatever is easiest and comfortable to you is the right way.



 

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