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  1. #151
    schrochem's Avatar
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    Well I had a little better luck today. I posted two plates in the gallery. I tried 'in hand' but got some islands.
    I went back to the helper tray and 30ml and seem to be getting better blacks.
    Ty, could you explain how exactly you pour for in hand?
    I was practicing for awhile with just water and felt pretty good, but I think only only used 20mls instead of my planned 30 so it didn't cover the plate completely.
    Scott

  2. #152
    schrochem's Avatar
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    Joe, I was looking over your darkbox you posted earlier in this thread. I really dig it! I NEED to be mobile now.....
    I'd like to build one similar to yours so I might pester you with questions. First off, is there anything you would have done differently?

    Thanks
    Scott
    Scott

  3. #153
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    Well, I built the box to fit easily into the backseat of my car after having one that was slightly bigger and a hassle to transport. I then decided to put the thing on wheels with handles that would convert to legs. I should have used 2x2s instead of 1x2s for this purpose since the legs flex a bit when setting it up and I've even had one snap on me in the field.

    With thicker legs/handles, I'd also rig some sort of net to carry equipment or chemicals when it is in the cart position. Otherwise, I'm pretty satisfied with the design overall. The way the wheels are attached, I can always go to a larger diameter bicycle wheel if I wanted and I think that would be better on rough terrain.

    I made the mistake of trying to glue the shroud seam after it was attached to the box. In hindsight, I'd do that before attachment now.

  4. #154
    schrochem's Avatar
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    Thanks Joe.
    I can see some bigger wheels working well.
    How are they attached?
    Is that 1/2" ply you used for the main box?
    How did you attach the legs for 'cart mode'?
    Is it one long hinge holding the main door in place or did I see some side things also?
    last question....
    what shroud seam were you talking about in your statement above?
    Thanks
    scott
    Scott

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by schrochem View Post
    Thanks Joe.
    I can see some bigger wheels working well.
    How are they attached?
    I drilled a 1/2"+ hole through a piece of 2x4x6 attached to the bottom of the box and slipped a 1/2" carraige bolt through it for an axle on each side. A large wing nut, washer and spacer keep the wheels in the proper spot.

    Is that 1/2" ply you used for the main box?
    1/4" to reduce weight. However, the box interior corner seams are all reinforced with 1/2" square dowels for strength and stability and to allow attachment of hinges.

    How did you attach the legs for 'cart mode'?

    I built a covered track that the legs/handles slide through. In the cart position (first pic) the handles are held in place by several quick release ball pins. After pulling the pins, I insert the outside handle into a channel & slide both until they abut as in the second picture to become the legs of the box. The outer handle inserts to become a stop for the inner handle as seen in the second pic. The channel guide also becomes a stop for the outer handle when positioned as a leg. The weight of the box stabilize the legs and the two wood pieces shown on the top of the box in the first picture become crossbeams for the legs. The quick release ball pins hold the crossbeams in position when in use.

    Is it one long hinge holding the main door in place or did I see some side things also?
    last question....
    what shroud seam were you talking about in your statement above?
    Thanks
    scott
    There are three small hinges holding the doors onto the box with a couple cables on the box sides with hooks and turnbuckles to hold the doors open. This eliminates the need for corner rods to support the upper door. The lower door/tabletop is also held by a couple side chest-hinge/lid supports.

    The shroud is the the black lightproof material.

  6. #156
    schrochem's Avatar
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    I could have sworn I hit send...
    I just typed up a reply and it went into the ether....
    The right pic clears up a lot of questions. Genius joe!
    On the left pic I see how the bottom most pin works but are the other two (right side of triangle) holding the leg in place?
    If 2X2s were used for the legs, do you think the cross beams could be eliminated?
    Thanks
    Scott

  7. #157
    schrochem's Avatar
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    Joe, are you sure you used 1/4" plywood on the box? compared to the 1X2s it sure looks like 1/2"
    Thanks
    Scott

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by schrochem View Post
    ...
    On the left pic I see how the bottom most pin works but are the other two (right side of triangle) holding the leg in place?
    If 2X2s were used for the legs, do you think the cross beams could be eliminated?
    Thanks
    The legs are slightly different lengths. The ones on the inside actually form the handles that are pulled along. The two pins through the guides secure those to the box. The other pair of legs are just along for the ride with a pin at the bottom to keep it in place and an eyebolt and wingnut further up and through both handles to keep the outside one from rotating. That pair of bolts/wingnuts become the bolts that secure one of the crossbeams to the legs. One of the other pair of bolts can be seen holding the two crossbeams against the handles in the left pic.

    I drilled holes through the legs so the pins or bolts could be used to easily stabilize the legs with the crossbeams. But, this also weakened them so, another reason to use 2x2s instead of 1x2s for the legs. I would still use the 1x2 crossbeams even if 2x2s were used as legs. They really do add stability and the additional weight isn't significant overall, partly because I'm not hefting this weight around but rather rolling it. Also, somehow I see the crossbeams fitting in to becoming a supporting part of the net arrangement in the cart position.

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by schrochem View Post
    Joe, are you sure you used 1/4" plywood on the box? compared to the 1X2s it sure looks like 1/2"
    Thanks
    Oops. You're right. I was thinking about the first box where I used 3/4" and then went to a thinner stock for the second box. So it progressed from 3/4 to 1/2, not 1/2 to 1/4. Sorry for the confusion. (There is a bit of 1/4" used for the cover of the leg channels.)

  10. #160
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    Thanks again Joe, I think it's all clear now.
    This morning something occurred to me.
    Has anyone tried using vertical baths for washing?
    It could certainly save quite a bit of space in the darkbox.
    Especially if it was doubled up.
    My last session I used a helper tray and stopped development by pouring water on the plate while it was still in the tray, then removed and placed in wash tray.
    I would have two concerns with using vertical baths. One would be accidentally nicking the collodion taking the plate in and out, the other would be being able to clean it well.
    Thoughts?
    Scott



 

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