Originally Posted by schrochem
I rinse in the helper tray and then a horizontal tray inside the darkbox, then wash after fixing (ammonium thiosulfate, not KCN) in the above tank outside the box. So far, no problems with scratching. The tank shown will do full-plates in the long direction and 1/4-plates in the short. They double as storage boxes. Wish I had more of them built when I first thought of it. Apparently business is good now at the plastics vendor. They grooved the first batch for me from a cutoff for about $75. Now they want nearly a grand to groove a 4x8.
So, I use these in the field for the wet process and then build wooden boxes for plate storage.
Ah yes, I remember seeing that Joe. That's an excellent idea.
I was thinking more of way to use it like you made your silver bath in the darkbox (below the bottom). I attached a quick sketch of what I had in mind. It could be a box with three baths in it. That box could be 'dropped' in the bottom of the darkbox like you did your silver bath. The silver bath would have a lid on it to keep it light tight.
I would rinse in the helper tray, remove plate and put it on a dipper and place in bath one with agitation then bath two, bring out and fix (I guess I could keep it on that same dipper). Maybe have the fixer with two rinse baths as well in a box. Easy to transport also.
One quick comment on your multi-tank idea. This would NOT be a good idea if you use KCN to fix. KCN + collodion developer => cyanide gas => dead photographer.
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I agree Kerik.
They would definitely be separate just as I do with trays.
The above sketch is two rinse baths (for development) and the silver bath.
I could make another set (two rinse baths and a fixer bath) and have them elsewhere, just like with trays.
I was just thinking it would take up less space in a darkbox, if the silver and dev baths were all vertical and together.
Last week I made a 'double' bath out of some spare acrylic I had. It's just two baths together that share the middle wall.
I also made a box for my silver bath with a lid.
Next I made some simple wooden boxes about 7.5" cube without a lid.
I made one to hold the silver box (in essence just a stand) and another for the double bath. The work great for just carrying and storing.
I used the double bath for the developer rinse.
It worked great and I really like using it over trays.
I stop development by pouring water over the plate when it's in the helper tray. Then I take the plate out and put it on the dipper. Place in the topmost bath for about ten seconds, then the bottom, gently going up and down. Then I take the whole box with bath over to the fixer area and pull the plate out with the dipper and place it in the fixer bath.
What's nice is that I probably use less water. It's also easier to rinse and fill then carry over the trays. Best of all it takes up much less space.
I plan to make a double bath for the fixer as well.
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Joe, I've started to put the darkbox together. I was wondering what dimensions you went with for your shroud. Do you think it needs to be that long?
The shroud I made was initially too long. The shroud was made from two widths of Porter's better grade nylon darkroom cloth at a length of 4 yards.
The width of the material is 54" and sewing two widths together gave a piece approximately 3 yards wide x 4 yards long (9'x12'). The length was then sewn into a tube with a circumference of 12'. The perimeter of the darkbox is about 100" so there is a bit of extra fabric there. I'm 5' 8" and also needed to trim some of the shroud from the bottom near the ground. I think there is about 18" extra there. With the exception of cutting off a few narrow strips of materials to be glued on the sewed seams, I'd recommend trimming the shroud after it is attached to the box since the rear portion of the shroud (connected to the box top) needs to be longer than the front (connected to the box bottom).
You do want the tube circumference big to be able to work in comfortably. The fabric is tacked to the back wall starting at the bottom (I put the seam to the right corner), then up the sides and finally at the top. You need to put a couple pleats on the top to accommodate the excess fabric which allows for greater freedom of movement outside the box.
Last edited by smieglitz; 11-23-2007 at 09:50 PM. Click to view previous post history.
thanks joe, I got the porter fabric wednesday. However, it's 60" wide.
So you used 12' circum for a 100" circum 30+30+20+20, and I believe coffer used a 90" circ. for a 34" wide box. That's what confuses me. I guess I can't mess up using more....
Thanks also about the tip of bottom versus top, hadn't thought of that one.
How high did you end up putting the 'table'? around waist height?
I imagine you could use too much but the amount I used seems to work well. It was a bit harder to attach I suppose. But, it is easy to gather and make light-tight and also hang over the door supports. It does seem like quite a bit more than Coffer used, but I'm OK with it.
Originally Posted by schrochem
I made the table slightly lower than elbow height. I actually replaced the legs with longer ones to raise the table and safelight window a little higher than I originally had placed them. I like a little glare on the plate when I pour and having the window higher helps there.
Thanks for the input. I had noticed Coffer's was quite high...so I asked.
If the fabric wasn't so expensive I'd just go to hacking away.
Hence, I wanted more information.
I might actually get some $1 fabric from wally world and do a mock up.
Another way I was thinking of doing this would be to attach the fabric to a piece of ply and then fit it into the back. I'm not sure if this would help me out or not, but 'if' I was to make another box, I could transfer the shroud....