Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 68,714   Posts: 1,483,035   Online: 808
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    11

    Negative spotting reccomendations?

    More than occasionally I have clear spots on my 8x10 negatives from dust, lint, etc. Often the spots are a little too large to deal with on the Pt/Pd print, so dealing with then on the negative with some type of opaque material seems appropriate, and spot the print later. I'd appreciate any insight.

  2. #2
    bill spears's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Cornwall England
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    565
    Images
    31
    I've just started in 4x5 and those clear spots on the negs are really getting on my tits ! Skies are the worst areas and I'm wondering aswell wether to spot the neg or the print. I have some stuff called 'perfect liquid opaque' which I think I'll use on the neg then touch in the resulting white spot on the print in the usual manner. I'm assuming negs are spotted on the emulsion side ??

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    63
    Images
    7

    Good Question

    Hey all you 'older' guys out there like me, the great 'K' in the sky made some stuff, 'rubilith' maybe? it was meant for retouching and cropping negs, it was red, a thick substance you mixed a touch of water with it to spread more easily w/a brush. Is anything still made like this. I have tried pencil & spot-tone to no avail.

  4. #4
    Jon Shiu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Elk, California
    Shooter
    Plastic Cameras
    Posts
    2,407
    Images
    33
    I've tried a red pilot pen on the base side of the negative (for enlarging to silver gelatin). It works, except it is hard to be very precise with it.

    Jon
    Last edited by Jon Shiu; 10-27-2007 at 01:30 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Mendocino Coast Black and White Photography: www.jonshiu.com

  5. #5
    Ian Leake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Switzerland
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    1,355
    Images
    48
    I'm just learning this so can't claim great expertise, but lightly dabbing the emulsion side with a sharp pencil point seems to work fine.

  6. #6
    davido's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    toronto, ontario canada
    Shooter
    Holga
    Posts
    458
    Images
    17
    the kodak product was called Opaque. It's pretty hard to find now, but there are others who make opaque paint. Just go to your art supplies store, that's where I found mine. I can't recall the company and it's at the darkroom. I believe it was Windsor-Newton. they also sold opaque marker pens which is even more convenient.
    david

  7. #7
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Honolulu, Hawai'i
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    17,080
    Images
    20
    Rubylith is a masking material that comes in sheets, so that's not what you would use for spotting.

    Pencil is usually too light for clear spots. Spotone can sometimes work, if you've got the right brushes, technique, and if the surrounding tone is amenable. Opaque and crocein red were used for opaquing spots that would be spotted on the print.

    Another technique that works well for tiny pinholes is to use a sharp stylus or a needle perpendicular to the film base to stipple the film base, which would diffuse the light over the pinhole and make it disappear in the enlargement. I've done this and it works quite well for tiny pinholes.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    11
    Thanks for all of your recommendations. The needle idea sounds like it's worth a try. Passage

  9. #9
    Monophoto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Saratoga Springs, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,691
    Images
    44
    There is a technique called "dye dodging" that may be helpful in these situations.

    Fix out some unexposed and undeveloped film, wash, and let it dry. Bind a sheet of this clear film to the non-emulsion side of the negative. The aluminized tape used to bind slides works fine for this purpose.

    Working over a lightbox, apply a dye to the clear sheet of film in the shadow areas that are too thin. Try to make the application as uniform as possible. A Q-tip works fine for larger areas, while a fine brush might be needed to work details. Let the dye dry, and then make a test print. Apply additional dye as required.

    I use Dr. Martin's Transparent Watercolor dyes for dye dodging. Magenta tends to work well, especially if you print on variable contrast paper. The magenta dye acts to hold back light, while also increasing local contrast allowing detail in the shadow to appear in the print. Yellow dye will also work - it has the affect of reducing local contrast.
    Louie

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Texas
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,576
    Images
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by bwphoto View Post
    Hey all you 'older' guys out there like me, the great 'K' in the sky made some stuff, 'rubilith' maybe? it was meant for retouching and cropping negs, it was red, a thick substance you mixed a touch of water with it to spread more easily w/a brush. Is anything still made like this. I have tried pencil & spot-tone to no avail.
    The product from Kodak was crocein scarlet, I believe. No longer available from Kodak, I'm afraid (I could use a bottle myself). Might be able to find some old stock or even someone that wants to get rid of a bottle. Not sure what is available at this time like it (thought crocein scarlet is used for other things).

    Small bottle would last a lifetime.
    Mike C

    Rambles

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin