I left my plate(that I exposed yesterday_ over my ashtray of white spirit in its box for several hours and got much better development. Oh well, so what, it takes longer, like the whole exposure for 5 hours under the UV light doesn't take long:rolleyes:
I just added in 30% of water to my rosin+meths mix and coated some plates and they don't seem to be drying much more slowly than without the water but the coating is really really uneven looking to me! I took a comparison photo of a plate I coated before adding water to the solution. I think I might have to just start again with fresh rosin and meths now.
I have never asked: What are you guys printing on ? I print exclusivly on glass. Last night I coated 5 5x7 pieces of glass with all of them drying to a smooth,opalescent and glossy finish. I just use a foam brush. Much less messy than pour coating. My yield is close to 100%.
I print on glass. I'm considering looking into getting some metal sheets/plates but haven't gotten around to it. I use the glass from clipframes, as long as it's the kind with nicely milled edges so it's not sharp at all.
I think I'd still prefer to pour, it's not very messy at all and no brush to clean out afterwards. I just measure out about 3ml of the liquid for each 4x6 piece of glass and pour it mostly in the centre then tilt the plate to get the rest coated, then pour off the excess, wiping the underside corner which tends to get a little messy but it's not awful.
I'll get around to photographing the new physautotype properly sometime. It's hard to get a good photo of these things.
Lavender Oil verses Rosin
Conditions Amb temp 21'c, full summer midday sun, UV factor 11.
Today I made two experiments, and discovered several things about the phsautotype using traditional lavender oil verses modern rosin.
Firstly they are two different beasts.
Rosin develops LIGHTNING fast in Kerosene vapour, Lavender oil is much slower.
My first experiment today was to coat one half of a plate with lavender oil the other half with rosin.
I placed a 20mm wide stick across the plate and left it in direct midday sun for 1 hr and 10 minutes.
I left it in the D tank for 60 seconds and the rosin mix had already cleared and was disappearing, the lavender oil coating was showing signs of starting to clear
The second experiment was to try another rosin contact print, the rosin coating was not all that even, but I exposed it for 1 hr and 10 minutes.
It was in the D tank for "two minutes" and the coating had almost completely cleared, you can just see a faint image of the two lady's in a wedding dress, its hard to photograph.
I have written up the experiments with more pictures on my website
Given "optimal" conditions for each, is there much difference between an image made with lavender oil and rosin?
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Hello to All,
Since some of my sugestions have been tried by participants in this Thread, with very negative results, it has occured to me that some might think that I am "full of It". So, here is a set of B&W in-camera color separations that I was Able to scan against a black background.
Here is what I did: Heat treated 10 grams of rosin,
Disolved it in 500 ml of denatured alcohol,
Added 500 ml of Water,
Dip coated 4 clean 5x7 glass panels (both sides)
Dried verticaly overnight,
Exposed via sunlight for 3 houers,
Developed over Sunnyside Odorless Paint Thinner,
Scaned each with a flatbead scanner against a black background.
UH-OHH! My images do not have a URL They are just files in My Documents. Anyone know how I can get them here?
Originally Posted by wildbillbugman
Bill they appear to be very simular
Now thats an idea Dip coating, both sides ? did one side stay frosty ?I see you have used a 50/50 mix, good pics, how do they look just held up to the light ?
Originally Posted by wildbillbugman
Somehow my response to your last post did not get "published".
Glass plates develop cleanly on both sides. I turn over the glass after 5 minutes, midway through my standardized 10 minute development time. But, honestly, I think that development is complete in less than the first 5 minutes. I like Oderless Paint Thinner becausae it is nearly impossible to over-develop.
Held up to the light the plates have a clear background (black in the illustrations, The image is a pearlesent, off- white.,
Looking at the results here maybe this rosin process needs long exposure times to harden the mix, given it only takes a minute or so to develop in kero fumes, might try a 3 hour exposure, as i have only been useing 1.25 hours as i was worried about over exposure.
Any more progress heather ?