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  1. #11
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Here is an example of the look I am after - minus the mottled skin tones ...

    Printing this in silver I've learned will give the blacks and whites yes but totally loses so much detail around the mouth, neck, forehead etc... Very laborious I imagine to dodge/burn it all back to the Pt/Pd look, and I prefer the edges and flatness of hand coated rag paper anyway.
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  2. #12
    RobertP's Avatar
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    Try Fixer-24. Easy to mix and the formula is published in a few places. Just google.

  3. #13
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    "I've been using Bergger BPF200 with D19 for my Pd negs so far but have been having to use excessive amounts of soln. #2 to achieve the contrast I want in my prints -"

    With reference to this first part of your question - There are threads on APUG indicating that this film does not have a high contrast possibility regardless of the developer used. I thought about it for Pt/Pd but gave up on the idea because of htis information.

    In my estimation, the best film on the market for expansion is Ilford FP4+. Almost any developer of choice can produce very nice negatives for any of the alt processes. The Thanksgiving photo I made of my family is on 8x10 FP4+, developed in Pyrocat HD. This neg prints on Pt/Pd in my UV box in 2 min 45 secondds with a beautiful tonal range. No contrast enhancer was used in the print coating.

    I can come close to this quality with Efke 100 and the same developer, but not as easily.

    I suggest you obtain some FP4+ and choose a developer. Stick with this combination until you are cofident in the results you obtain. You will save money and heartache utilizing this method.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post

    With reference to this first part of your question - There are threads on APUG indicating that this film does not have a high contrast possibility regardless of the developer used. I thought about it for Pt/Pd but gave up on the idea because of htis information.
    BPF 200 will work ok for pt./pd. printing if the subject brightness range is normal or above normal. If you are shooting in very flat scenes this film will not build enough contrast for pt./.pd, regardless of developer, though you may be able to make it work by using a contrast agent with the process. The best films for films for pt./pd. and other alternative processes that require contrasty negatives are.

    1. Kodak TMY
    2. Ilford FP4+ or HP5+
    3. Efke PL 100

    Sandy King

  5. #15
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    I have some FP4 here too after reading about its suitability elsewhere but I was going to save it for more important projects and was hoping the Arista/Fomapan would work as a bread and butter film in the meantime (I'm still learning) - its price is very attractive ...

    I have 100 sheets Arista/Foma200, 25 FP4 and 5 or so left of the Bergger I can try in the PMK (and 20 or so sheets of the BPFB18 and 10sheets 11x14 AHPS) - I'm sure I'll make a decision which one to stick with by the time they are finished. If the FP4 is a clear winner I'm not against biting the bullet (price wise) and sticking with it.
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  6. #16
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    nick-
    quit worrying about it and just burn some film. Otherwise you'll spend all your time chasing other ppl's magic bullets.

  7. #17
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Yip, I agree - its just that I've got some neat opportunities that are time dependent and I was panicking a little in terms of getting my process down for them - I figure I'll take double the frames for each shot so I'll have some room for experimentation later...

    Its amazing how much this one format (8x10) has taken over my photography ... It used to be all 16mm cine cine cine - but large format/contact, I dont know how to put it exactly... really enjoying myself
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by nick mulder View Post
    Yip, I agree - its just that I've got some neat opportunities that are time dependent and I was panicking a little in terms of getting my process down for them - I figure I'll take double the frames for each shot so I'll have some room for experimentation later...

    Its amazing how much this one format (8x10) has taken over my photography ... It used to be all 16mm cine cine cine - but large format/contact, I dont know how to put it exactly... really enjoying myself
    I think I metioned the foma film earlier, I've recently printed a bunch of palladium prints that turned out well. Anyway the film was over esposed by 2 stops(incident reading) and developed at 22 degrees for 14 minutes at a dilution a/b/water : 15/15/1000

    That is what worked well for me, but you should do your own test!

    Corey

    This

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera View Post
    nick-
    quit worrying about it and just burn some film. Otherwise you'll spend all your time chasing other ppl's magic bullets.
    ABSOLUTELY RIGHT ON!

  10. #20
    smieglitz's Avatar
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    Nick,

    I haven't done many Pt/Pd prints but routinely do Van Dyke Brown and the occasional salted paper print which require negatives of contrast greater than that required for Pt. I generally use HP5+ or Efke 25 and develop the film in HC110 dilution A (1+14 out of the concentrate) or stronger (e.g., 1+10). My times range from 6-7 minutes around 70F (depending on what I'm doing). I suspect Pt/Pd controls will give you enough flexibility that a bit of overdevelopment if it happened with this developer wouldn't be much of a problem. So just go for it and adjust as needed.

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