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Thread: POP Paper

  1. #11
    Ole
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    Joe and Guilliaume are correct (as always): It takes a lot of exposure, and it will look overexposed when it's right. I use Tetenal gold toner, which doesn't seem to bleach as much as some other toners. Also I feel that the "bleaching" in the fix is not so much a bleaching as a colour change, where the lighter (browner) tone during fixing looks like a bleaching action.

    When that is said, I use extremely dilute rapid fixer to bleach the highlights back if they seem veiled - 1:40 or so instead of the 1:4 you would use for "normal" prints.

    POP is a great process, capable of stunning results with a tonal scale which just cannot be compared to any modern paper or process. Ideally the negative should have extreme contrast, but the contrast in the print can be adjusted by exposing in direct sun and/or partial shade. "Northlight" gives higher print contrast from a given negative, which is useful for any kind of normal negative. Of course that means that the exposure time will be hours or days instead of minutes, so it's a good idea to start with very contrasty negatives in direct sunligh.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  2. #12
    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    Wow, Guess I'll cut a sheet down and start small, 2-1/4 instead of 5x7. the print was nowhere near what is being said. I've seen a few POP prints and think it it will be worth figuring out. Thanks for your help.

  3. #13
    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    It's easy and cool !
    Just seat close to your printing frame in the garden, to keep away cats or whatever else coming too close...
    Have a book, a drink, and look from time to time -)
    And resist the temptation to pull out the print, waiting is 3/4 of pleasure...
    G.

  4. #14

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    On a side note, we got an e-mail from Albumen Works saying that they had come to an agreement with Harman to continue production of the Centennial POP. The cutting order for the last batch produced by Kentmere is going in shortly. I will be receiving 20-40 boxes of 8x10 from this batch, so it would be wise to call and get on the waiting list for some of it.

  5. #15
    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    So I had an opportunity to try out this paper this week end. In other words the sun finally came out on Sunday.

    The exposure was still long at least 30 minutes for each of the 6 negatives I tried. I used various levels of contrast for testing. The negs with more contrast did look better.

    The exposed print had a deep purple color in the shadow areas, lighter purple in the highlights. When I washed the print before toning There was no milky residue that the books talked about. I put it in the print into the Borax/gold toner it changed to a rust, almost orange color.

    After toning I put the first few print into a regular fixing bath. The prints bleached to nothing very quickly. I then read a little more found a formula using 40grams of hypo to 1 liter of water. This slowed the bleaching down but not enough. Made a new batch 20grams Hypo to 1 liter water. There was some bleaching but not much. The print still was the bright rust color. After dring the print is a nice brown color. I will try to get a scan of it soon.

    All in all not a bad test. Took me about 10 sheets to get a good print. The paper is nice has almost a leather look to it texture.

    My questions
    Is the Fixer strong enough to be complete? Are there other fixes that will not bleach the print?
    Am I correct in assuming that different toners will give me a different color?

  6. #16
    Ole
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    I have only used Tetenal gold toner, which progresses through red-brown to blueish-black as toning progresses. As your print bleached in the fixer, it can't have been completely toned. Try longer toning next time?

    I do the first bit of washing in a tray with relatively little water, and pour the milky solution in with my spent fixer for eventual silver reclamation. Sometimes there's hardly any milkyness, other times there's a lot. It depends on the chloride content of the water, among other things.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  7. #17
    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    How long should I tone for? Just a best guess would be fine. I toned for about 5 minutes.

  8. #18

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    I tone in Tetenal Gold Toner for between 1 to 2 minutes.

  9. #19
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    I clear the print in 5 or 6 different water fill.
    I tone between 10 to 15 minutes (Gold toner from B&S). The more you tone the colder it turns.
    Platinum or paladium toning is beautiful too.
    I fix 10 minutes in two sodium thiosulfate bath (5 minutes each). Regular fix will kill the print.
    Then Hypo and wash (30minutes)

  10. #20
    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    Toning protects the print against bleach during fix.
    So, less toning more pronounced bleach and more toning less bleach in fix.

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