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Thread: POP Paper

  1. #1
    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    POP Paper

    I came across 100 sheets of Kodak ARISTO paper ~1970. The box was unopened but did not have any instructions with it. I assumed it was DOP but learned yesterday this is POP. Any information on this paper would be appreciated

    I have not used POP before. I know it can be exposed by the sun, but what is the iso of the paper? Can an artificial light expose it? How is it processed once it is exposed? I know it isn't processed in a Developer but it must be fixed, toned and made permanent some how.

    Lots of questions, hoping for answers.

    Thanks
    Randy

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    Ole
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    POP is exposed by ultraviolet light, of which sunlight is a good source. Artificial light can also expose it, but it needs either a very high UV content, or exeedingly long exposure times.

    After exposure wash well, and fix in weak "plain hypo". Gold toning is usually carried out before fixing, but the end result is just about the same if the toning is done after instead.

    Selenium toning is possible, but I won't recommend it since it also bleaches the image. Some have reported very good results with extremely dilute KRST, but all I've ever managed is mush. ;

    BTW, I'm moving this thread to "Alternative processes", where the chance of relevant answers is much better.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

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    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'll give it a try tonight.

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    POP

    Quote Originally Posted by Rlibersky View Post
    Thanks, I'll give it a try tonight.
    Google "Centennial POP"

    It will take you to a web site with complete instructions and visual samples.

    Cheers!

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    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    I put a piece in the sun with a negative on top. It was late so the sun was low in the sky say 15-20 degrees in Minnesota. Processed it in a borax/gold chloride solution, as shown in the "Centennial POP" instructions, and got a print that was light. The part of the print that was outside the negative was a dark reddish brown but the picture part was say 2 stops lighter.

    Should I wait and work on this in the middle of the day when the sun is high? How long of an exposure should I start with on this paper?

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    Ole
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    That's why contact printing frames had hinged backs: Expose until done, then tone and fix.

    At my latitude (60° N) about 10 minutes is about right - in summer. I increase to 20 minutes, then move indoors as the light disappears for the winter.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

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    Not sure about Sun exposure, but mine times for a 4 tube sun lamp is 8mins at 20cm...

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    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    Ole, is that in the middle of the day when the sun is highest? I'm at 45° N. I work on it more this weekend when i can get at it around noon.

    I do have a hinged frame and thought the picture looked dark enough. It bleached a little bit when toning.

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    If it is a regular POP paper it will start to "bronze" in the print shadow areas and the area surrounding the negative when exposure is correct (assuming you have a negative of sufficient density range). The bronzing looks a bit metallic and the slight greenish color will contrast with the reddish portions of the image that have received less exposure.

    Joe

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    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    Don't be afraid to overexpose the print. It really need a lot.
    Gold and hypo will bleach the print.
    Add to that pronounced dry down...
    -)

    Guillaume

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