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  1. #1

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    Ok Sandy, I read your chapter in Comming into Focus about Carbon printing. So I tried to make the pigment tissue, well actually I had some 12x20 fil UPS messed up and I just removed the gelating and tried to use that as backing.

    Now my question is, how thick should be the gelatin? I used a 10% Knox gelatin solution with 4 ml of glycerin and about 4 grams of watercolor pigment. Well, the darn thing ran all over the place, it was like trying to coat with water..lol...even my dog got gelatin on her hair....

    I know it probably is hard to explain in words, but do you have a method to know how thick should I make the solution, should I try a 20%solution when using knox?

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Aggie your even more twisted than I thought!
    www.ericrose.com
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    "civility is not a sign of weakness" JFK

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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aggie
    Jorge, I have this picture in my head of you and the taco bell dog stuck in a wigling mass of jello.
    LOL....

  5. #5

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    Jorge,

    A 10% gelatin solution, made with Knox gelatin, should be plenty thick enough. I use a similar gelatin and coat with an even thinner mixture, about 8%, and it coats very well at room temperature of around 70 degrees F, with the solution at about 95-100 degrees. Assuming the Knox is same as the one I have used (regular Knox food gelatin) a 10% solution should coat very well at 70 F.

    It is possible that you broke the gelatin down by soaking it for too long in hot water. From time to time I have done this and in those circumstances the gelatin loses it ability to set.

    Sandy

  6. #6

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    Jorge,

    BTW, you really don't need to remove the gelatin of the film base. In fact, it is better not to because the dry tissue may just flake off plain polyester.

    I use a material called Yupo for the tissue support. This is same as Kimdura, a synthetic plastic paper.

    Sandy

  7. #7

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    ah, perhaps I did let it soak too much or let it heat to much. I just wanted to make sure I was doing it right, I will give it a shot again. I think you are correct, this is much harder than pt/pd.

    Thanks Sandy!

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  9. #9

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    Jorge,

    Since you believe there is the possbility that you may have kept the gelatin solution hot for too long let me further add that you do not want it ever to get over about 140F, not even for a few minutes, and certainly not for several hours. It would probably be ok to keep it warm overnight at a realatively low temperature, say at about 90-100 F, but really hot temperatures will break down the molecular structure quickly.

    BTW, since the time of my chapter on carbon in Coming into Focus I have refined slightly my coating method. I now use a frame which I place over the paper to contain the warm gelatin solution and keep it from flowing off the paper. The frame I currently use is of magnetic sign material which i use over a piece of galvanized steel, but plain wooden frames will also work ok. You can see this technique by going to http://rmp.opusis.com/carbon/carbon.html, and I describ eit fully in my carbon manual which is sold through Bostick and Sullivan.

    Sandy



    Sandy

  10. #10
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