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  1. #1
    Anupam Basu's Avatar
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    Making in camera high density range negs

    I am preparing to take on a couple of processes that require a density range of 1.8-2 or more. Initially, I will just be using HC110B as I do with my negs meant for silver printing.

    As I understand it, if I provide the N+2 development time to a negative with N SBR range, I should be in the ballpark for the desired density range. I don't have N+2 times calculated but I am assuming it'll be about 1.7x to 2x the N development time. i.e. N(alt)=N+2(silver).

    So for a scene that actually needs N+1 etc development my time to get an alt. neg has to be even more. If this understanding is correct, then I am a little confused about the following sentence from the .alternativephotography.com site:

    "I followed the usual procedure for making the negatives: Ilford FP4 plus film, overexpose by one stop then overdevelop in Ilford ID11 by 80%."
    Why overexpose by a stop? If anything N+2 negs are underexposed by a third or even half of a stop, aren't they? N- negs need to be overexposed to boost the shadows. What am I missing? Any tips on making in camera negs that have a high DR would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Anupam

  2. #2
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    Begin with a film which inherently has more contrast and expands well - in other words a slower film. An excellent one is FP4+. Some who must have greater speed use TMax 400. Don't use TMax 100 as it contains an ultraviolet filter inhibiting the printing of alt processes.
    With FP4+ begin by doubling your normal development time. This ma not be exactly the development increase necessary for the particular process, but it will get you in the ball park and most likely print pretty well.

    This is meant only to give you a starting point. Fine tuning will be necessary as youbecome more acquainted with your processing.

    Have fun
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  3. #3
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    I forgot one thing, do not overexpose - this only increases printing time. Expose normally and increase development. Increased exposure does not increase contrast, it just makes a difficult to print negative.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  4. #4
    Anupam Basu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    I forgot one thing, do not overexpose - this only increases printing time. Expose normally and increase development. Increased exposure does not increase contrast, it just makes a difficult to print negative.
    That was my understanding. Thanks for clarifying. I am using Fomapan 100 at EI 50 and have had great results with it for cyanotypes, so I am going to stick with it for now.

    -A

  5. #5
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    If you don't get enough density with HC-110, try a staining developer (but not PMK, which will give you too much background stain), which will give you extra UV density. I like ABC pyro.

    If you have negs developed in HD-110 that aren't dense enough for you, about 8 min in Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner will give you an extra zone of density in the highlights. Some also recommend bleaching and redeveloping in pyro, but I haven't tried that, since I usually develop in pyro anyway.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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