Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,274   Posts: 1,534,635   Online: 1075
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    1,156
    The New Platinum Print by Richard Sullivan and Carl Weese offers a very complete review of films and developers for Pt printing along with guidance as to exposure and printing techniques for each film used. The final arbiter is, of course, the way that the final print looks. Consequently, the parameters suggested-while based upon experience and careful attention-are simply a starting point. The authors advise modifying your technique with reference to film and developer based upon your prints, and the subject being photographed. I believe that you would benefit greatly from reading the appropriate sections in this book. A film-developer combination that has not been mentioned yet ( I believe ) is Berger 200 developed in Rollo Pyro. If I recall correctly, using the Jobo expert tank at 75 degrees, one simply exposes the film for the shadows ( zone iv ), and develop for 8 1/2 minutes using the dilutions suggested by Formulary in their kit. Remember, of course, that the dilutions of Rollo Pyro can ( and might well ) be varied based upon your own results.

    I have not yet attempted Pt printing, and so the recommendations are not based upon any personal observations. However, Berger film developed and exposed as above produces negatives that print quite nicely on variable contrast paper and my diffusion enlarger.

    If you have difficulty finding the book you might call Mr. Weese and see if he has any books remaining for purchase.

    Best of luck, and please let us know how things are going.

    Ed

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    SE.London
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    547
    Quote Originally Posted by donbga View Post
    Use a pyro developer, forget the Rodinal. The pyro stain will increase the actinic DR of the negative without having to resort to long development times.
    Don, I have but the exposure time for Pt/Pd under UV light source is too long. The stain is absorbing too much UV.

    For my projection printing I do use PMK pyro almost exclusively for all my film processing.

  3. #13
    colrehogan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Shooter
    Large Format Pan
    Posts
    2,016
    Blog Entries
    3
    Images
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Crone View Post
    Don, I have but the exposure time for Pt/Pd under UV light source is too long. The stain is absorbing too much UV.

    For my projection printing I do use PMK pyro almost exclusively for all my film processing.
    How long is too long for UV exposure?
    Diane

    Halak 41

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    SE.London
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    547
    Quote Originally Posted by colrehogan View Post
    How long is too long for UV exposure?
    12 - 15 minutes for my PMK pyro negatives compared to 3 -5 minutes for my Rodinal/Ilfosol 3 developed negatives and Polaroid 55 negatives.

    Too much/excessive exposure can lead to 'bronzing' of the blacks in Pt/Pd printing which is happening with the pyro negatives.

  5. #15
    Ian Leake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Switzerland
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    1,363
    Images
    48
    HP5+ works fine for Pt/Pd. I rate it at EI 800 and develop in Rodinal 1+22 (45cc of Rodinal made up to 1000cc) at room temperature (about 22 degrees celsius) for 13 minutes in a Jobo Expert Drum or 16 minutes in trays.

  6. #16
    karavelov's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sofia, Bulgaria
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    75
    For my kallitypes (they need the same range as pt/pd prints) I use and recommend ADOX/Efke 100. I use Pyrocat-MC 1.5+1+100 for 16-24 minutes (I usually develop by inspection). My UV exposure time is around 8 minutes with self build unit with 5 very tin BL tubes, 30cm long.

  7. #17
    2F/2F's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    8,008
    Images
    4
    Out of the three Efkes, Efke 50 has the most contrast, according to what I read at DR5. My favorite Efkes are the 25 and the 100, probably because they are more flat. When I first tried them, I tried all three, and loved them all. Using 25 and 50 seemed a bit redundant, though, as did using the 100 and FP4, so I just settled on continuing to use the 25. However, the 50 might work the best of the three for PT/PD.

    But any film should work as long as you put it through its paces. I am a huge fan of HP5, personally, and I don't find it difficult to get lots of contrast with it at all, even in 35mm.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 09-27-2008 at 08:57 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  8. #18
    donbga's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Shooter
    Large Format Pan
    Posts
    2,058
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Crone View Post
    12 - 15 minutes for my PMK pyro negatives compared to 3 -5 minutes for my Rodinal/Ilfosol 3 developed negatives and Polaroid 55 negatives.

    Too much/excessive exposure can lead to 'bronzing' of the blacks in Pt/Pd printing which is happening with the pyro negatives.
    Don't use PMK. Pyrocat-HD works much better, IMO.

    12-15 minutes sounds about right for PMK developed negs, but I have had 25-30 minute print times with PMK developed negs.

    Polaroid negs don't usually have enough DR for palladium printing, IME, but that's soon to become a moot point. You can bleach and redevelop in pyro to extend the range.

    You can easily run into similar printing problems with standard developers. I really don't like Rodinal for anything since it tends to accentuate film grain.

    Another reason to use pyro is that you can easily create dual purpose negs and they also scan easily if that is your interest.
    Don Bryant

  9. #19
    Ian Leake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Switzerland
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    1,363
    Images
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Crone View Post
    12 - 15 minutes for my PMK pyro negatives compared to 3 -5 minutes for my Rodinal/Ilfosol 3 developed negatives and Polaroid 55 negatives.

    Too much/excessive exposure can lead to 'bronzing' of the blacks in Pt/Pd printing which is happening with the pyro negatives.
    If your shadows are solarising before the highlights appear then you're right: your negs are too dense (for the particular Pt/Pd mix, grade of developer and paper you're using).

    Long exposure times are generally to be avoided. Firstly, and most obviously, they slow the whole process down which reduces throughput. They also mean your negative is touching the emulsion for longer which increases the risk of negative damage. And long exposure times may also cause a more subtle problem if the heat from the UV lights dries or even burns your emulsion during printing. This may subtly change Dmax, tone and speed. Of course this is not a problem if you like final result (unless it dries unevenly).


    But back to the OP's question...

    IMO one of the major problems with pyro is that the stain makes it hard to assess the negative for UV printing. Pyro also requires a slower EI than more active developers - which is a real pain if you're dealing with people (the OP mentioned portraits). Pyro is not a magic bullet. Unless someone is already familiar with it then I wouldn't recommend pyro as a developer when learning Pt/Pd printing. It introduces too many extra variables and uncertainties.


    And finally a bit more about Rodinal and film grain...

    Grain is simply not an issue when contact printing large format negatives. If you're making enlarged negatives from roll film, either traditionally with inter-positives or by scanning and printing digitally, then grain may be worth worrying about. But if you're using sheet film then there's just nothing to see. As I've said before, I push HP5+ to EI 800 and develop in high concentration Rodinal. I get beautifully smooth tones throughout: there is no grain.
    Last edited by Ian Leake; 09-28-2008 at 03:03 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Clarifications

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    fairfield county, Ct.
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,816
    Images
    24

    film

    I've been using straight D76 and the older version of trix rated at 250....developed 8 minutes at 75 degrees....also print perfectly for grade 2 AZO
    Best, Peter

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin