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  1. #1

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    None pyro dev. for Pt/Pd printing

    Hi!
    I am in the beginning of learning Pt/Pd process. I want a film/development combo that not include Pyro. I´ve heard that pyro is a bit tricky for a beginner. I think that kodak films are rather expensive. I´ve read god things about Ilford FP4+. Mayby i can get some tips about overdev. and decreasing the exposure to get a negativ suitable for Pt/Pd process. I dev. in trays.
    I be very glad for a an answer.
    Best regards.
    Inge
    Escuse my bad englich!

  2. #2
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Ilford PQ Universal is an excellent clean working developer for making higher contrast negatives for alternative processes. Have a look at the data-sheet for Ilford Ortho Plus times are quite similar for FP4+

    Welcome to APUG BTW and apart from the "Escuse my bad englich!" your English is excellent

    Ian

  3. #3
    rwyoung's Avatar
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    If your English reading skills are reasonably sharp, get a copy of "The Book of Pyro" by Gordon Hutchings. You may not get into using Pyro developers right away but it is a good read and will help you make a decision.

    If you have a sense of adventure, mixing your own formulas isn't that difficult. Just be careful. And again, I don't know what resources are available to you but you can buy formulas like Pyrocat-HD pre-mixed from various sources.

    PQ is pretty good stuff and should be widely available, one might even say universally available. There is a pun for you to help you practice the subtleties and vagaries of English.

    Part of alternative printing is about experimenting. Have fun and make detailed notes as you experiment with your developers and printing.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things! http://rwyoung.wordpress.com

  4. #4
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    D-76 and HC 110 dil A also work well to produce negatives with a scale for platinum/palladium. If you us e HC-110 dil A at the same time and temperature as for dil B your negatives should be in the ball park for platinum.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  5. #5
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    D-76 will build up a much greater base fog if processing for a higher Gamma, this is why Ilford recommend PQ Universal or Phenisol.

    Ian

  6. #6
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    I use Ian's combination of FP4+ and PQ Universal Developer with success for Pt/pd negatives. I find that I can adjust the dilution easily to control contrast...usually 1:15 to 1:25 depending on the contrast of the original scene, with development times of 5 to 10 minutes (at 20C). I use a Jobo drum for most negs, but if I have large areas of even tonality (such as skies), I prefer to use trays.

    Vaughn
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  7. #7

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    I think almost any developer will do, I have used ID-11, XTOL, mixed my own D-23, when I wanted plus development. For me basically, I gave normal scenes plus development for Platinum/Palladium will get you reasonably close. You just have to watch the highlights do not block up. I have been using Pyrocat HD for most of my sheet films, I also develop in a tray, by shuffling. I use the 2:2:100 ratio, as I was finding the development times for 1:1:100 were just too long for me.

    Fred.

  8. #8
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    You do not have to use a Pyro developer to make negatives that are good for Pt/Pd. Almost any developer will do. The big advantage to pyro is being able to make a negative that will print well on silver or or alt process, essentially offering a different density curve with the different spectrum. With a conventional developer, just process for bulletproof to start, and adjust from there, you'll have it dialed in a short time.

  9. #9
    nze
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    I second ilford PQ , Terry king introduce me to this developer and I keep on using it for my platinum palladium.
    Chris Nze
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