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  1. #11
    timbo10ca's Avatar
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    I can't find UV fixtures and lights, but I can find blacklight ones. They're fluorescent- is that OK or do I need actual UV bulbs?

    Tim
    If only we could pull out our brains and use only our eyes. P. Picasso

    http://www.timbowlesphotography.com

  2. #12
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    That's exactly what you want- the blacklight fixtures. They're quite rich in UV.

  3. #13
    timbo10ca's Avatar
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    cool- thanks
    If only we could pull out our brains and use only our eyes. P. Picasso

    http://www.timbowlesphotography.com

  4. #14
    timbo10ca's Avatar
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    Success!!!! I made a nice little stand with 4 fixtures high enough to allow plenty of airflow. I can set the frame at the desired height, and it works like a charm. Normal negs are printing beautifully at around 5 minutes, give or take depending on the paper.

    Thanks again,
    Tim
    If only we could pull out our brains and use only our eyes. P. Picasso

    http://www.timbowlesphotography.com

  5. #15
    timbo10ca's Avatar
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    I am getting some stipplation in random areas, and it doesn't seem to matter if I'm using a brush or rod. Any idea what may be causing this?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2561apug.jpg   IMG_2562apug.jpg   IMG_2563apug.jpg  
    If only we could pull out our brains and use only our eyes. P. Picasso

    http://www.timbowlesphotography.com

  6. #16

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    Which paper are you using?

  7. #17
    timbo10ca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukas Werth View Post
    Which paper are you using?
    This is on Arches Platine. I'm pretty sure it's over-aggresive brushing, and maybe some not-quite-dry emulsion to complicate matters. I tried another one today and was very careful to use very minimal brushing and to make sure the surface had absolutely no hint of moisture before exposing, and I did not get any of these marks. Would you think it's more the brushing or the moisture that caused it?
    If only we could pull out our brains and use only our eyes. P. Picasso

    http://www.timbowlesphotography.com

  8. #18

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    I have not carefully read the whole thread, so there may be some redundance here.
    Generally: print-out palladium is not a very difficult process, and brushing is not difficult. If you use one of those "magic brushes" or a similar one, there should be no problem. Hake brushes may shed hair and consume more sensitizer, but those also should work, as should glass rods. I once forgot to add my FAO to the pd, brushed it then on separately, and the paper exposed absolutely normally.
    The paper should have a certain moisture when coated, best for coating is around 60% ambient humdity, but it may be steamed before coating. It should also contain considerable moisture when exposed.
    Arches Platine looks very good, works well if it works, but has often been plagued in the past by sudden changes in the manufacture, "bad batches", and has other idiosyncrasies (Tween 20 is a problem). I would not recommend it. Try Fabriano Artistico with a pre-coat of 2% oxalic acid.
    The sun should not be a problem if you have the opportunity to step inside and check exposures.
    Negatives should be dense enough, and quite contrasty. The same negs used for salt prints may be used also with pd print-out!
    If you used too much of a contrast agent, you may get difficulties printing down the highlights.

  9. #19
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    Tim-

    This COULD be a paper problem, or a brush technique problem. IIRC, the notorious problem with Platine was not white spots so much as black spots showing up throughout the image. My favorite paper for Pt/Pd is Bergger COT320. It was specially developed for platinum printing, and have a very bright white surface, giving you a bit more contrast in your final images naturally. I have never had emulsion flaws as a result of using this paper.

    When brushing, what are you doing? As a general technique, try to keep the brush perpendicular to the paper, using the minimum pressure required to move the emulsion across the paper. Use a series of horizontal strokes followed by a series of verticals to distribute your emulsion across the image area. Before brushing, have the brush thoroughly wet with distilled water, then squeegee the brush free of excess moisture, so it forms a blade-like edge. The very best brush bar none is the Richeson 9010 "Magic Brush". They're expensive, but nothing else produces the same result with as much ease. Jerry's Artarama and Cheap Joe's both have excellent prices on them (about 30% less than in-store retail).

  10. #20
    timbo10ca's Avatar
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    Great- thanks. Good to know about the platine. I love the look and feel of it, but have not been happy so far with the images on it. I may just need to adjust my exposure a bit, but it seems not to give nearly as nice vivid highlights like I can get from a much cheaper Weston Diploma. That'll be gone soon, and I don't really like the light weight of it any way. When my Arches is done, I'm definitely going to give the COT320 a try. I was under the impression it was tough to coat and not for "beginners", but the same thing can be said of the platine. I'm still waiting for my "sample pack" from B&S- I should give them a call.

    I'm definitely going to invest in one of the magic brushes when I start doing larger prints, but I can't really afford to buy two- I'll use the Hake brush I bought for 5x7 for the time being, as that's the only size I'm currently doing. My technique is definitely not perpendicular, and I'm sure that's the problem- the brush bends over and and become more of a "wipe"- I'm going to try trimming the bristles down so it maintains it's form better- hopefully that'll work.

    Tim
    If only we could pull out our brains and use only our eyes. P. Picasso

    http://www.timbowlesphotography.com

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