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  1. #11
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyooso View Post
    Has anyone had problems with their richeson brush rusting up?
    I now use disposable foam brushes. About $0.25 each, I think, when bought by the case over the 'net. Cheezy as they are they seem to be capable of very smooth coats and very low brush absorption. They also wring out pretty thoroughly. They are the best brush to use for varnish, which is the use I got them for originally.

    I use Windsor & Newton brushes for other purposes and have never had a rusted ferule. I don't know how they would hold up with photochemicals, though.

    The 5-for-a-dollar made-in-Malaysia hardware store brushes, now those rust.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
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  2. #12

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    Every flat watercolor brush that I've had, and there's been quite a few, has shown some rust. It's not affected their preformance, just their good looks. The problem with drying them with the handles down is that the water gets in the wood. That begins the wet/expand, dry/contract cycle. Paint flakes, and eventually the bristle/hair set becomes loose, and its time for a new brush. Drying them on their sides, then storing them on the handles seems to work well.
    Anne

  3. #13

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    I don't try to put the epoxy paint on the ferrule. I just coat the wood and I have never gotten any rust just wiping the brush off and standing it on end. I have four or five brushes of different sizes and age and none of them have any rust on them. Perhaps standing the brush on end prevents this problem -- it seems to do so for me.

    Sandy


    Quote Originally Posted by boyooso View Post
    Suddenly, the 'magic' brush isn't feeling quite so magical to me anymore.

    Sandy, How do you get the epoxy paint on the inside of the ferrule next to the bristles? other than carefully that is?

    Thanks!

    Corey

  4. #14

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    My freaking out about the rust is that I'm experiencing some black spots on my prints. I am ASS-U-ME ing that it is the rust flaking off onto the paper when I'm coating, I MIGHT be wrong.

    I DO LOVE THE RICHESON brush for how it allows me to work the coating into the 20 GSM paper I'm using. The other sheep hair brushes were HORRIBLE, they would destroy the paper.

    As I said, maybe I'm wrong about the RUST flaking off into the paper... but here is how I'm doing it, please let me know if my techique is flawed.

    I'm coating 8 sheets of paper at a time, I dole out my solution into 8 separate vessels. I coat a sheet of paper, it takes about 30-45 seconds to stage another piece of paper, I leave the brush in a dish until the next paper is ready. I would say it takes about 15 minutes to coat all the paper.

    Anyways, Thanks.

    Corey

  5. #15

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    My freaking out about the rust is that I'm experiencing some black spots on my prints. I am ASS-U-ME ing that it is the rust flaking off onto the paper when I'm coating, I MIGHT be wrong.

    I DO LOVE THE RICHESON brush for how it allows me to work the coating into the 20 GSM paper I'm using(it is a GREAT brush!). The other sheep hair brushes were HORRIBLE, they would destroy the paper.

    As I said, maybe I'm wrong about the RUST flaking off into the paper... but here is how I'm doing it, please let me know if my techique is flawed.

    I'm coating 8 sheets of paper at a time, I dole out my solution into 8 separate vessels. I coat a sheet of paper, it takes about 30-45 seconds to stage another piece of paper, I leave the brush in a dish until the next paper is ready. I would say it takes about 15 minutes to coat all the paper.

    Anyways, Thanks.

    Corey
    Last edited by boyooso; 11-06-2008 at 12:07 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16

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    I think you are wrong about the brush being the culprit. Black spots on pt/pd prints (or kallitype) are often caused by the paper. The theory is that during the manufacturing process itself some metal residue is deposited on the paper and this reacts with the coating to cause black spots.

    Sandy King







    Quote Originally Posted by boyooso View Post
    My freaking out about the rust is that I'm experiencing some black spots on my prints. I am ASS-U-ME ing that it is the rust flaking off onto the paper when I'm coating, I MIGHT be wrong.



    Corey

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    I think you are wrong about the brush being the culprit. Black spots on pt/pd prints (or kallitype) are often caused by the paper. The theory is that during the manufacturing process itself some metal residue is deposited on the paper and this reacts with the coating to cause black spots.

    Sandy King
    Otherwise known as "The Black Plague"

  8. #18

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    I will investigate the paper a little bit.. but there are always other places it can come from, what about the cutter I use to cut the paper? What about the rust that is in the flaky bits of rust on the inside of the ferrule next to the bristles?

    time will tell.

    Corey

  9. #19

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    Thank You for your advice. I should take to heart your advice, you have quite a bit of experience I should pay attention to.

    Thanks,

    Corey

  10. #20

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    Tips on Brush Care (from Dick Arentz....his brushes, though well used, didn't have rust, didn't have the ferrule coated, and didn't have any problems).

    rinse brush in distilled water ...after every coating.
    shake nearly dry
    Hang with closepin on line in the darkroom with the bristles down, until dry, or until your next coating sheet(if so, rewet in distilled).

    Dick felt that leaving sensitizer in the bristles led to oxiadation into ferrous iron, and then you mixed that into the next coating. Dic thought it led to spots in the print.

    and this has worked for me for four years with Richeson brushes of several sizes. No rust, no fuss, no black spots.

    YMMV.

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