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  1. #11

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    Success!
    I'm a happy man.
    I was WAYYYY overexposing my tintypes under the enlarger. I started out with 10 seconds up to several minutes. I was essentially getting no image. I finally figured out I was way overshooting the times. With the lens wide open, the correct time is 1 second, yes 1 second! I stopped it down two stops and settled on 4 seconds. Also, the instructions suggest 2 minutes in the develop. Try 12 minutes for the image to fully develop.
    I got my first successful image. Now I need to work on pouring the plates. I need to put a big sign in the darkroom that says "the emulsion does NOT to be shaken!" Air bubbles dontcha know.

    Thanks for the comments, and I'll keep this updated.
    Steve
    www.scdowellphoto.com
    Last edited by JBrunner; 11-16-2008 at 09:44 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Oops, my bad. Nothing affected.

  2. #12
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdivot View Post
    Success!
    I'm a happy man.
    I was WAYYYY overexposing my tintypes under the enlarger. I started out with 10 seconds up to several minutes. I was essentially getting no image. I finally figured out I was way overshooting the times. With the lens wide open, the correct time is 1 second, yes 1 second! I stopped it down two stops and settled on 4 seconds. Also, the instructions suggest 2 minutes in the develop. Try 12 minutes for the image to fully develop.
    I got my first successful image. Now I need to work on pouring the plates. I need to put a big sign in the darkroom that says "the emulsion does NOT to be shaken!" Air bubbles dontcha know.

    Thanks for the comments, and I'll keep this updated.
    Steve
    www.scdowellphoto.com

    What about the drying time? Is this with a "tacky" plate? Or did they finally dry?

  3. #13

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    Jason,
    The newly coated plates dried much quicker then the first ones. I think the first ones were coated too thickly. Also I dried the latest ones on end, instead of flat. Drying flat caused a pooling of the emulsion and a slower drying time.
    On a different note, my positives are absolutely consistent in their density and tone. It's amazing to see the different unique look you get with each plate, despite the consistent positives. I'm sure it has mostly to do with pouring the plates. I need to work on that!
    Steve
    www.scdowellphoto.com

  4. #14

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    can we see a photos os the work?

    well done.
    photoshop is somewhere you go to buy photo equipment.


    lens photos here

  5. #15
    Kerik's Avatar
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    Cool, man! Let's see them!
    Kerik Kouklis
    Platinum/Gum/Collodion
    www.kerik.com
    2014 Workshop Schedule Online

  6. #16

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    Soon, very soon.......
    :o)
    Steve
    www.scdowellphoto.com

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by eddie gunks View Post
    can we see a photos os the work?
    It's hybrid, we can't do that here, right?...

  8. #18

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    Steve- you should check out the emulsion making forum here. You may wish to make your own emulsions for future work.

  9. #19

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    I was asked not to post the pics here. You can see two of them on my website, or one of them on Hybridphoto.com. These are just experiments playing around with old photos. Let me know what you think.
    Thanks for all the input.
    Steve
    www.scdowellphoto.com

  10. #20

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    A few things...

    You might add AMMONIUM THIOCYANATE to the developer rather than exhausted fixer, it may work better. You should check this thread out http://www.apug.org/forums/forum205/...rotypes-2.html

    You also might want to thin your emulsion. The last time I made dry plate tintypes I mixed my emulsion like this

    15ml Ilfotol solution (or properly diluted photo flo)
    15ml Everclear Alcohol
    45ml HOT Gelatin Solution

    You may not need to thin it so much, I'm actually spraying the emulsion on which is an awful way to do it, but I do get nice even coats, which I've never been smart enough to achieve any other way...

    Good Luck! Your images look nice.

    Corey

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