Craig... I know that some printers have had some problems with developer staining when using Tween, just wondering if you have ever experienced this at your dilutions with the fixed out paper, as the issue seems paper related. Also, have you ever tried using additional drops of 10 % ethyl alcohol?
I am not sure what you mean by "developer staining". What colour is the stain? Where is it present on the print/paper? What type of developer is being used? What temperature? When does it appear?
I have had some issues with pinkish spots appearing in a print. They were related to the temperature of the paper when being coated (too cool) as well as the temperature of the coating rod (also too cool). I found that by slightly warming the solutions (I use a coffe cup warmer) and the rod and paper, the spots went away. I have a feeling that they were caused by palladium coming out of solution upon contact with a cool surface. Other than that I have never had a stain of any sort on any type of paper I have used.
I have never used ethyl alcohol in my coating technique. I am not familiar with the produuct but understand that it is used to "thicken" a solution, making it easier to spread on a surface. This is a different action to that of Tween or other surfactants that actually reduce the surface tension of a sulution and thereby fascilitate penetration into a porous surface.
Kennedy talks about the problem on one of his tech pages here
it was the reasons I had yet to twy tween... as a beginner I figured I was already juggling enough variables. However, if you haven't encountered the problem then I won't worry about it.
Ethyl alcohol does not thicken the solution, but thins it. Or at least decreases it's surface tension. I use 190 proof Everclear from the liquor store. I use the equivalent of about 5 drops per 2 ml of sensitizer (pt/pd + ferric). It has proven beneficial to smooth, even coatings on every paper I've used it with, although I've never been interested in printing on fixed out silver paper, so I can't comment on that. I also add it to my gum dichromate solutions to add in smooth, even coatings. If things go bad, I add it to my coffee to smooth my attitude!
Originally Posted by Craig Koshyk
I think there is actually an easier way to make palladium prints in silver paper. I had a discussion with Sandy about tonning Kallitypes with a pd solution, and how the pd does replace the silver in the print.
If my theory holds true, I think you can wash the silver print and BEFORE you fix it, you can tone it with a pd solution and essentially get a pd print in silver paper. I will be making this experiment this weekend and let you all know. BTW seems the same mechanism will apply for pt.
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Alcohol & Art a classic combination! Smoothness in coating is certainly what everyone is after but I also desire the luxurious creamy surface that is inherent in some of the silver based papers, if there was another way to achieve that surface I would certainly be doing that.
Jorge, I am very interested in hearing about your experiment, please post in excruciating detail!!
Have you ever tried printing pt/pd on vellum? I use Clearprint drafting vellum with stunning results. Very smooth surface and DMAX comparable to a matte silver print.
Originally Posted by Annie
Vellum..... I have a roll right here! It is supposed to be sunny tomorrow with a 3 hour exposure I might actually get something.
Kerik, will you be doing another workshop this coming Spring in the Pacific Northwest?
Thanks Kerik for the info re: booze as a smoothing agent. I think I will give it a try...on the rocks!
I can attest to the smoothness of your images having seen a great display of them at 8 Elm Photo in Toronto a few years back...truly outstanding work!
I may have been thinking about polyvinyl alcohol or some such beast. I remember reading about it on the Bostick and Sullivan site a while ago.
I will be doing some printing this weekend so I think I will give the ethyl alcohol a try...on paper that is. I will probably stick to single malt in the glass.
Once again, you're telling everyone a secret!
I was thinking exactly the same thing about toning the silver paper. I don't know when I will get a chance to try it, but I definately will do that sometime. That discussion we had with Sandy got me thinking about this, and I think it is feasible to do it.
However, I'm unsure about the steps, because I was thinking that you might want to remove the excess silver first in an unhardening fixer, and then go into the tone bath, and then into a wash and then hardening solution.