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  1. #11

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    Great cyanotypes! I have done some and they can be a bit trick. Especially to get "the right look". Whcih you have done very well here. Great job.
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  2. #12
    fhovie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Kennedy
    Great cyanotypes! I have done some and they can be a bit trick. Especially to get "the right look". Whcih you have done very well here. Great job.
    Thanks Robert. It really was a lucky first try. I have made a number of them since and have been trying to make enlarged negatives. I am about to go digital on that - I found some good templates (Dan Burkholder)- now I need some special ink jet neg material from Pictorico. I may have to buy a new printer. After doing the interpositive thing and spending several days and wasting lots of money in materials in the darkroom - I think it will be photoshop for enlarged negs. Cyanotype is very nice - it is the cheapest and easiest of all alt processes. I recommend using peroxide in the wash - it really makes the blues go dark. It has great contrast and a sharp look that is hard to beat. I think Kaalitype is my next favorite - it seems much denser and quicker than Van Dyke brown. I have meterials to do aubumum and will try that soon as well. I also have some amidol and AZO on the way. My enlarger is not getting much work these days - I have been looking at all the good artilcals on light sources - I may have to build one of those too. - I don't know when I'll have time to work!
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  3. #13

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    I just posted my first Cyanotype in the critique gallery I also use Arista ortholith for enlarged negatives, although in the posted cyanotype the neg was a 4x5 of Arista 400 from a pinhole camera. I had lots of fun combining photogram techniques as well... placing 'found objects' with my negative. I plan on using the direct negative technique in the future (soon as my darkroom is functioning again).

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/NbyR/nbyr.html

    I do think arista works best for cont tone in very dilute dev, like dektol at 1:20. I also once tried a suggestion to add baking powder (or was it soda?) to decrease the contrast. I seem to recall it working fairly well, but probably the same as heavy dilution. I haven't tried van dykes yet, but plan on doing some gums in the future. I live in FL so I use the sun... might as well, huh? Kinda fun sitting out in the grass watching my image emerge . Only problem is I don't have a contact frame... I use a large hardcover book and an 8x10 piece of glass! Makes it hard to check exposure, but it works. I think your first attempts are great! Getting the exposure right can be tough... mine was just slightly overexposed (too dark). My cyan was grainy because I used Fabriano 'rough' texture paper. Didn't notice significant graininess otherwise.

    Well, looking forward to seeing more!! Hopefully soon I will have more to post too.

  4. #14
    Ole
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    My first one's in the gallery too .

    I used one of my increasing number of 5x7" negatives - this one was FP4+ developed in Pyrocat-HD. Prints nicely on "ordinary" sliver halide paper too - must have done something wrong in mixing the cyanotype chemicals. Can't imagine what - unless it's the smigeon of oxalic acid I decided to put in?
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  5. #15

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    I have just started doing alternative processes and found Dan Burkholder's book "Making Digital Negatives for Contact Printing" a life saver. It has all the information you will never need as well as plenty of useful items on the CD.
    After trying various makers transparencies I found that Pictorico outshone everything else out there.
    Good luck with your future processing.

  6. #16
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    >>>""I have just started doing alternative processes and found Dan Burkholder's book "Making Digital Negatives for Contact Printing" a life saver. It has all the information you will never need as well as plenty of useful items on the CD""

    ... Been there and done that. I made some nice VDB and Cyanotypes with them but the curves really are for pt/pd and there is a loss in the tonality with these digi negs. I will still make some digi negs but now will try to make 8x10 in-camera negs if I want to contact print. I have never gotten enough density on any Pictorico film to do AZO correctly or make a Kalitype that looks as good as one made with a good pyro neg. I am not so concerned with the resolution as with the densities although when I jump into Aubumum, it may be a consideration.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

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