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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    State College, PA
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    Annie,

    My attitude on mistakes is that I will always try to forgive the mistake the first time, because the real test of the quality of the people in the company is in how they repair the damage or correct the mistake.

    If a company doesn't fix the problem to your satisfaction, then you have a legitimate reason to be very angry. At that point you could always challenge the credit card charge for delivery of a 'faulty product'.

    They're not open for another hour this morning. I've got to talk to Kevin this morning anyway, so I can have him call you if you want. That'll save you the phone charges. PM me your information if you want me to do that.


    ---Michael

  2. #12
    clay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    Asheville, North Carolina
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    Greywolf:

    Don't let the whole thing scare you off. This is a pretty unusual situation. I highly recommend a kit to get started, just to save you the hassle of mixing everything yourself. What a basic palladium kit should contain (and the bottles will be labeled):

    Ferric oxalate #1 (or A)

    Ferric oxalate #2 (or B) - (if you order from B&S, specify the #2 solution for PLATINUM instead of palladium - it contains a lower percentage potassium chlorate)

    Palladium solution #3 (sodium tetrachloropalladate)

    A developer:
    Ammonium citrate or potassium oxalate developer

    Some clearing agent(s):

    EDTA clearing agent or
    Citric acid or
    kodak hypoclear (or mix your own 1 tbsp sodium sulfite, 1 tbsp EDTA, 1/4 tsp sodium metabisulfite per liter of water)

    I personally use clearing bath #1 with citric acid, and the next two baths of Kodak HCA.

    That is all you need to have in the kit or order separately.

    One of the first things you will have to overcome is the tendency to fixate on how 'precious' all of this chemistry is,which can be to the detriment of learning how to make a good print. Just accept the fact that you will make some mistakes while learning, and that 'close' is not the same as 'right'. To that end, if you are serious about learning the process, I would bite the bullet and purchase 100ml of the palladium metal solution, and 4 25ml dry packs of the ferric oxalate. That way you can mix up the ferric oxalate fresh more frequently and maintain some consistency in the sensitizer mix.

    I would also decide on what sort of image color you prefer, and buy the right developer for that. You will find that most longtime printers eventually just settle on potassium oxalate, but certainly ammonium citrate will work also.

    Have fun!

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    State College, PA
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    Clay is right on. As a beginner, it's too much to be trying to be purchasing and mixing all of these things on your own. Annie got unlucky with a shipping mistake, but you won't because you will be able to confirm that you got the right stuff from the start based on Annie's unfortunate experience.

    If you need any further assurance, you can always post a list of what you got, and someone here can verify that it will be suitable for printing (assuming that what's IN the bottles is what's ON the bottles).

    ---Michael

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    270
    Grey, I think that Clay & Michael are giving you good advice.... try the palladium kit even if you do a few prints and the images are too warm for you then you can order up some extra platinum coating solution to cool things down... the kit will help you in understanding the process and you can take it from there. Michael.... I am composing a PM for you.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Missouri
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    171
    Annie and Greywolf,
    I agree, don't let this keep you from doing pl/pd printing. If I were a betting person I would bet Kevin will make things right. I have always had great service from B&S.
    Wm Blunt

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    270
    B&S have sent me a new kit.

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