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    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    Cyanotype and aging

    I was wondering,

    when I create the cyanotype liquid (new cyanotype process with Ammonium iron(III) oxalate and Potassium ferricyanide )

    Does it need to settle for a couple of days ?
    With other words, is there a change noticable when the liquid becomes older?

  2. #2

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    I've cyanotype chemistry (A + B, not the newer formulation) that is nearly 6 years old.. It's a little crusty, definitely darker. It still works fine, when mixed it forms that yellow/bright green..

    It seems to go forever..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Willie Jan View Post
    I was wondering,

    when I create the cyanotype liquid (new cyanotype process with Ammonium iron(III) oxalate and Potassium ferricyanide )

    Does it need to settle for a couple of days ?
    With other words, is there a change noticable when the liquid becomes older?
    My experience is that as long as you keep Parts A&B seperated, stored in the dark in a tightly sealed GLASS container the solutions seem to last a very long time. I mix a liter at a time.
    Don Bryant

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    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga View Post
    I mix a liter at a time.
    That was also question behind. I now create 200ml,
    but making the stuff in higher volume takes the same time...

    I more and more like the cyanotype (strange, isn't it?)

    I use Simili japon,bergger cot 320, buxton paper.

    I had bad experience with Arches paper (not platine),
    strange dots where visible that did not take probably as much liquid as other parts of the paper. Looks like a paper with snow dots.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Willie Jan View Post
    That was also question behind. I now create 200ml,
    but making the stuff in higher volume takes the same time...

    I more and more like the cyanotype (strange, isn't it?)

    I use Simili japon,bergger cot 320, buxton paper.

    I had bad experience with Arches paper (not platine),
    strange dots where visible that did not take probably as much liquid as other parts of the paper. Looks like a paper with snow dots.
    I had a similar problem with Arches HP Watercolor paper, though not as extreme. I looked at a finished print under a microscope and saw just what you described. Actually, small holes formed by overlapping fibers that did not fill with the sensitizer solution. Double coating didn't seem to help much.

    Pre-shrinking the paper fixed the problem, in fact I think my Dmax doubled!! No need to double coat anymore.

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    Talking about Arches, I had various problems with their Aquarelle paper (300gsm) whilst experimenting with papers for Salt Printing (slightly different than Cyanotypes I agree), the paper kept going blotchy during the washing stage. After numerous attempts on various different sheets I eventually moved onto Fabriano 5 - I use HOT press and so far very pleased.

    John
    Last edited by UKJohn; 01-27-2009 at 10:54 AM. Click to view previous post history.

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    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim_bessell View Post
    Pre-shrinking the paper fixed the problem, in fact I think my Dmax doubled!! No need to double coat anymore.
    What do you mean by pre-shrinking?
    Heating the paper under a press before coating?


    What I read is that using wetting agent could help you to get the solution attach better to the paper.

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    Perhaps he means soaking the paper with water initially and letting it dry; they do this with watercolor paper, no?

    I sort of do this, I don't soak but brush the paper with water and then coat again when damp (WITH VDB), with cyanotypes the brush and paper I use I don't really need it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Willie Jan View Post
    What do you mean by pre-shrinking?
    Heating the paper under a press before coating?


    What I read is that using wetting agent could help you to get the solution attach better to the paper.
    Willie,
    Sorry, i have been away from the computer.

    By pre shrinking the paper I mean soaking in water for 10-15 minutes, then allow to dry completely before coating. This closes up the pores of the paper and gives a more even coat. Just before I coat and I use a glass rod, I humidify the paper above a tray of water for maybe 20 min. This also help the paper absorb the sensitizer. Don't let the paper touch the water in the tray, just suspend it above the water about a 1/2 inch. and cover the tray with maybe a piece of glass the keep the humidity up.

    T

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip P. Dimor View Post
    Perhaps he means soaking the paper with water initially and letting it dry; they do this with watercolor paper, no?

    I sort of do this, I don't soak but brush the paper with water and then coat again when damp (WITH VDB), with cyanotypes the brush and paper I use I don't really need it.
    Do you double coat your VDB paper? I'm getting ready to try my method (so far only have used it with cyanotype) with vdb since I didn't like the look of double coated paper. I would rather get it all on in one shot.

    thanX

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