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  1. #1

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    what paper for Ware's New Cyanotype?

    Mike Ware recommends Buxton or Silversafe, neither of which are available at reasonable prices in the USA (Ruscombe Mill is $18/sheet). I tried Arches Platine but got horrible reaction (sensitizer turned to green/blue). I fixed this with citric acid but still get a terrible speckled effect from bad absorption (even after adding some Photo-Flo).

    I know this is the Platine paper causing the problem because when I coat an old sheet of Crane's 100% Cotton resume paper, I get a very smooth, consistent tone (this paper is too thin and falls apart in the wash, but it is smooth ;-)

    So, what is the best paper to use for a reasonable price? Or, am I stuck using $18/sheet paper? I am looking for something smooth that will maximize the resolution of the final print. Thank you!

    P.S. It seems like the New Cyanotype formula doesn't respond to Hydrogen Peroxide as original cyanotype. Have others found this to be true?

  2. #2
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    Try sizing with gelatin if you want smoother tones. It may also help with the speckling effect, as the solution does not come into contact with the paper.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  3. #3

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    I like Crane's Weston Diploma Parchment - smooth texture yielding good detail. And tea-toning gives good results. Also, btw, its inexpensive too.
    Last edited by doughowk; 02-25-2009 at 07:32 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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  4. #4

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    New Cyanotype is very sensitive to paper, and gelatine sizing will not help.
    I second the Weston doploma... I tried once the first batch when the paper was newly announced, and it worked beautifully. (New Cyanotype is my way of testing paper: if this process works, others will also.)
    You may bring a range of other papers into service, however, by pre-coating them with citric acid (try a 40% solution).

  5. #5
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
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    I just did it with really old sensitizer with ClearPrint Vellum. Worked great and a very different look

  6. #6
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    I use Bienfang 360. But I have whole flat files full of drafting vellum, I'll have to give that a try.
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  7. #7
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukas Werth View Post
    New Cyanotype is very sensitive to paper, and gelatine sizing will not help.
    Okay, I won't argue against that. I've got only limited experiences with Whatman HP and Buxton paper.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  8. #8

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    I had mixed citric acid into the sensitizer at the time of application as Mike Ware advised. I tried your advice of pre-coating the paper instead. That stopped the speckling issue. Thank you.

    I'm still not getting a lot of adhesion though. There is a lot of wash-off of Prussian Blue in the wash. This results in shadows that are not very dark. And, H2O2 seems to have no effect at immediately restoring some density (like it does with original cyanotype).

    Well, I bought some Arches Bright White Hot Press and Bright White Cold Press to experiment. That's all they had at the local art store. Both have gelatin sizing. Maybe I'll have to sport for the Weston Diploma Parchment.

    Any other tips are appreciated. Once I have these issues solved, I can start toning and tweaking from there.

  9. #9
    matthewbetcher's Avatar
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    where can you still find the weston diploma paper? I've been looking and can't find it anywhere...
    "the age of nature is past; it has finally exhausted the patience of all sensitive minds by the loathsome monotony of its landscapes and skies." naturaimmemorial.com

  10. #10

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    I tried the Arches Aquarelle 90lb Bright White Hot Press tonight.

    First attempt: Sensitize paper (New Cyanotype + tiny drop of photo-flo) turned green after 5 minutes. Fail.
    Second attempt: Bath paper in citric acid bath for 5 minutes. Dry. Coat with sensitizer. Turned green. Fail.
    Third attempt: Precoat with 40% Citric Acid w/v solution. Dry. Coat with New Cyanotype + tiny drop of photo-flo.
    - didn't turn green
    - no mottle or speckle in final image
    - citric acid overcoat made even coating of sensitizer harder to do
    - still some wash-off of Prussian Blue
    - final density not so good (worse than regular cyanotype)
    - my fingerprints would lift the Prussian Blue off the paper while it was wet.
    - densities were better than Arches Platine. Absorption was better than Platine.

    Hmmm.....

    Buxton paper is out of stock until fall. Weston Diploma seems to be gone. Ideas on a non-buffered paper I might try?

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