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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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  2. #12
    JBrunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Another option is to shoot e-6 positive (gives a sort of wet plate effect when enlarged on to ortho-litho), or develop your b&W camera film as a slide, or use dr5. It works well and makes enlarging to a negative a one step process.

    dr5 is here:

    http://www.dr5.com/

  3. #13
    davido's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    toronto, ontario canada
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    I have been shooting Scala 120 (I bought a bunch a while back) and sending it DR5. The turn around for someone living here in Canada is a bit slow but the B&W slides are stunning. I then print the negative on lith film and develop in LC-1 developer. I used dilute HC-110 for while but couldn't get the contrast I was after. Even with skipping the inter-positive step, there is an increase in contrast from your original. In fact, creating a very low contrast inter-positive is good way to control the contrast but it's alot more work.
    There are alot of variables to contend with. Just keeping consistent temp. in a tray is tough. I created an agitation system using a window squeegee which passes over the negative without touching. I found that normal try rocking was creating negs with inconsistent development- more density at the edges. I am getting developing times between 12-18 minutes with the LC-1!
    Lith film is cheap but getting the right development time and temp is tough and the results are in no way consistent.
    So, it's really about your expectations. If you're happy with an image then fine but if you really want to perfect your negative, it can drive you a little crazy!


    -david

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