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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    I am using stonehenge rising for kallitypes. Following all the steps in Sandy's article, I am am getting good results with tonal balance and contrast, but the coating is not smooth. It almost appears like the coating is not on the surface and the character of the paper is more predominant than the image on the coating. And therefore the image is not sharp. I have tried extra coating solution with no improvement. Should I just try another paper?

  2. #2
    fhovie's Avatar
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    Mar 2003
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    Try aubumum if you want sharp.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  3. #3

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    Sep 2003
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    you will have to tell me what "aubumum" is!

  4. #4

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    Jan 2004
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    Manhattan Beach, CA
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    I'm dyin' to know what it is.
    Paper matters a great deal. Try several.

  5. #5
    fhovie's Avatar
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    I spelled it wrong-
    Albumen printing:

    http://www.redhillphoto.com/albumen.html

    try that.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  6. #6
    Joe Lipka's Avatar
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    Sep 2002
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    Cary, North Carolina
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    Sometimes the watercolor type papers have a smooth side and a textured side. Try some prints on the "other" side of the paper and see if that solves the problem.
    A New Project! Transformations 02/02/2014

    www.joelipkaphoto.com

    250+ posts and still blogging! "Postcards from the Creative Journey"

    http://blog.joelipkaphoto.com/

  7. #7
    Aggie's Avatar
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    ..

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Manhattan Beach, CA
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    What sort of contact print frame are you using? Holding the negative tight against the paper is key. The weight of a big piece of glass may be insufficient. I like my 8x10 prints better when made on my spring-closed contact frame. The one with the hinge on one end and thick glass gives fuzzy images. I use Rising Stonehenge and the find the surface wonderful. I haven't yet used Arches Platine for kallitypes but you might like that surface better. Also the color of the print is affected by the paper.
    PS I learned the hard way to get a properly sized paper. Arches 88 feels like heaven but sucks coating solution like dry sand!

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    178
    I am using a vacuum frame. I got some nice results on clearprint 1020 this weekend. Used some crane's platinotype also, but I liked the clearprint better.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    178
    For most of my kallitype printing I have tailored the negative so I can use 4ml pot dichromate in the sodium citrate. So the negative needs to be about 1.5 log. Is there any good reason to consider tailoring my negatives for using 1ml dichromate, which will require a negative log of 1.75 - 1.8?

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