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  1. #11

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    Don't be in a hurry...just work on one process at a time to start with, keep a notebook filled with copious notes.

    Getting good negatives, whether D or A, will take quite a bit of time to dial in. Then, experimenting with test strips, paper, technique, etc will keep you busy for quite a while.

    Alt process takes quite a big commitment of time, materials and energy but the results can pay back considerably if you're dedicated and patient.

  2. #12

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    Jun 2008
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    Poland, a Osiek near Oswiecim
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    I wanted to buy PDN, but his price is for me too high, taking under attention the dollar exchange.
    1$ = 3,20zł :/
    This would facilitate me very preparation of negatives.

    Ps: I Using Translator....

  3. #13

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    Jun 2008
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    Ok, i Made a solution for Cyanotype II New Formula(with a 0,1g Amonnium Dichromate) and the solution is a prussian blue color...
    Now the solution is cooling for crystalise.
    Last edited by SadowskiPL; 06-16-2009 at 10:12 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14

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    Sep 2005
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    Istanbul, Turkey
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    The solution had to be dark green. There's something terribly wrong there...

  5. #15

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    Poland, a Osiek near Oswiecim
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    hmm I read a alternativephotography.com ...
    [...] But if there are significant amounts of iron(II) impurities in your chemicals, it may be coloured blue due to a trace of Prussian blue formed in suspension. [...]


    ups...
    Potassium ferricyanide K3[Fe(CN)6] - i have K4[Fe(CN)6] ( yellow color not Red.. )
    >.<
    Last edited by SadowskiPL; 06-16-2009 at 05:13 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16

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    It seems you fell into the traditional ferr(i)cyanide - ferr(o)cyanide confusion. You want ferr(i)cyanide (red); ferrocyanide will form prussian blue immediately. That mixture is useless, get rid of it and remix with the correct chemicals.

    I don't remember if I said that before but; Cyanotype II is sensitive and won't work well with chemically impure supports. You have to use fine quality pure non-buffered paper. If you experience chemical fog with the paper of your choice try to put 2 drops 40% citric acid per ml of coating solution... (Do not put citric acid in the stock solution!) This won't work with heavily buffered paper; you'll have to acidify the paper prior printing if you absolutely insist on using it.

  7. #17

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    Jun 2008
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    Poland, a Osiek near Oswiecim
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    hmmm...
    What source of UV light will be good ( power ~400W max )?

    - Philips HPWT BL 220V/ 125W E27 PH - ( 340-380nm) - 183zł
    - HPA 400/30S R7S SOLAR PHILIPS 400W - (315-400nm ) - 115zł
    ??
    Now I have only a 2x 18W BLB ...

  8. #18

  9. #19

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Poland, a Osiek near Oswiecim
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    I know this....

  10. #20

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    Sadowski, use 60cm (24") Philips /05 series fluorescent bulbs. TLK 20W /05, or TLK 40W /05 bulbs are fine. Just make sure to match the bulbs with high quality electronic ballasts. (No magnetic ballasts!) Show the technician the bulbs, they will be able to give you compatible ballasts. You want a bulb that peaks around 360nm... I can get 40W bulbs for about USD 4.50 each in Istanbul. Hope they're equally well priced in Poland! 8 of these (placed 2cm apart, allowing 10cm space between the bulbs and printing frame's glass) will give you exactly 40x60cm exposure/printing area. They have at least 3000h practical life-span (they will work up to 8000-10000h with gradually lessening yield), so it's a one-time purchase unless you don't break them.

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