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Masking/Cropping Prints
I'm experimenting with making prints with cropping masks. So far I've tried masking the negative with rubilith tape (which didn't block UV very well) and with sheets of film (which blocked the UV but left me with poor contact between the negative and the paper surface). I've also tried masking the paper before coating with mixed results.
Does anyone have any tips for masking negatives for UV exposure processes? Or has anyone got a reliable technique for masking the paper before coating?
Thanks in advance.
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I never had very good results masking during exposure. Now I mask paper before coating and for that I use Urgo Urgopore (http://www.distrimed.com/product_inf...702fb253780758) There are different width: 1,25, 2,5 and 5 cm and it doesn't leave any glue on the paper. Works fine for me.
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I'm glad I saw this thread as I am also planning to experiment with masking on my pt/pd prints.
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When I did a lot of graphics work back in the 70's/80's combining negatives with text etc we always made masks from lith film. This is easy and cheap.
Ian
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Thanks for your fast replies... A couple of follow up questions though...
 Originally Posted by payral
I mask paper before coating and for that I use Urgo Urgopore.
My French is pretty bad... Is this the thin medical tape that's very thin, almost like thick tissue?
 Originally Posted by Ian Grant
When I did a lot of graphics work back in the 70's/80's combining negatives with text etc we always made masks from lith film. This is easy and cheap.
I've never seen this done. Can you explain a bit how you did it?
Thanks again.
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My French is pretty bad... Is this the thin medical tape that's very thin, almost like thick tissue?
yes it's used to apply a dressing and it's very thin. Coating doesn't go through.
Boarder is very clean, I take it off just before drying the coating.
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Hi Ian
I might be able to expand a little on the method Ian G suggests, since this sounds like the method I use.
Ruby lith film is basically a sheet of mylar with a clingfilm-like layer of lith film. You score your mask on the film side and peel away the red film. The mylar sheet can then go between the neg and light source (film-side down). I have only found the film on *bay in the UK, but I'm sure you can get it elsewhere.
Cheers
Geoff
PS: Sorry to Ian G if this is not the method he suggests.
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Drafting tape for masking before coating. Make sure you rub it down on the edge.
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 Originally Posted by gwatson
Hi Ian
I might be able to expand a little on the method Ian G suggests, since this sounds like the method I use.
Ruby lith film is basically a sheet of mylar with a clingfilm-like layer of lith film. You score your mask on the film side and peel away the red film. The mylar sheet can then go between the neg and light source (film-side down). I have only found the film on *bay in the UK, but I'm sure you can get it elsewhere.
Cheers
Geoff
PS: Sorry to Ian G if this is not the method he suggests.
Quite different, we used to make a photographic mask often from a drawn piece of artwork on lith/line film, processed in Formalith developer, (AN79/D85) these developers give good sharply defined edges. Often we'd make a 5x4 positive and then enlarge it to make a larger negative.
Ian
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 Originally Posted by Ian Grant
Quite different, we used to make a photographic mask often from a drawn piece of artwork on lith/line film, processed in Formalith developer, (AN79/D85) these developers give good sharply defined edges. Often we'd make a 5x4 positive and then enlarge it to make a larger negative.
Ian
Hmm. Yes, quite different. Sorry: didn't read your response correctly and assumed you were referring to Rubylith film.
Geoff
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