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Thread: 26-IK info

  1. #1
    AshenLight's Avatar
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    26-IK info

    Hi all,

    I just purchased a NuArc 26-1k and after putting in a new lamp and doing some minor setup, it seems to be working well. I have a couple of quick questions...


    • The vacuum hoses aren't in the best shape, especially on the bleed valve. Does anyone know the ID of the hoses used in the vacuum system?
    • I now find myself having to recalibrate exposures for the processes that I use. Since I need to start thinking in terms of exposure units instead of minutes and seconds, I have to start somewhere. Assuming the integrator is working well and is adjusted for the factory default, what is a reasonable starting point in exposure units for processes that used to take between 6 and 25 minutes (depending on process).


    Thanks,

    Ash

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    Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
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    Ash, these lights are nice to have. I find that exposures in the range of 300 units to 700 units normally cover all of my carbon transfer exposure times. Mine is set to seconds for the units. So I just have to think in terms of 300 seconds etc. Some may be 1 1/2 seconds. Time an exposure and you will easily get it figured out.

    Jim

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    What Jim said. I agree. My PtPd prints are in the same range as Jim's with an average of about 400 units give or take 100 or so, here and there.....TW

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    AshenLight's Avatar
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    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for the responses. I started calibrating this evening with Mike Ware's cyanotype chemistry on Crane Platinotype and hit 400 EU with a 31 step wedge and Mark Nelson's PDN initial exposure step. I seems that the 26-1K as delivered is about 1.50 to 1.75 seconds per exposure unit. I'll finish these calibrations tomorrow and start on the carbon later in the day.


    Regards,

    Ash

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    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    The units/second is completely arbitrary on these machines. Usually, as they come from the factory, they count down at 1 unit/second when the lamp is fully warmed up, that may have changed over the years (er, decades). The count-down rate can be used as an indication of lamp condition: as the lamp ages it puts out less light and the count-down rate will slow down; it is usually a good idea to replace the lamp if the rate goes much below 1/2 of what it is with a new lamp. Although the rate is adjustable it is best to leave the 'calibration' at whatever it may be - the actual number (1 count/second, 1.75 counts/second) doesn't mean a thing except on your machine with your 'calibration'.

    As to the hose, any thick wall rubber hose that fits will work OK. If the hose is too flimsy it will collapse under vacuum. You should have the bleed valve fully shut when you draw down and the vacuum should reach 20-25+ inches Hg. Use the bleed valve to release the vacuum before opening the frame.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

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    AshenLight's Avatar
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    Hi Nicholas,

    I'm trying to ween myself off of the whole units vs. seconds mindset. I think I've figured out the exposure for Ware's chemistry and will see tomorrow how things go with the next step of the PDN process. Once I have that all set (independent of the calibration of the integrator), I'll start on the carbon tissues I prepared this evening.

    BTW: the unit arrived without a lamp, but luckily there is a good graphics art/printing supplier not too far from me so I was able to get a NuArc factory GW114 lamp from them so at least that's one variable I've been able to eliminate. I've heard that the non-NuArc lamps may be an issue as far as consistency of exposure goes.

    Thanks,

    Ash

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    Ash.......I needed to replace my stock lamp in my 26 1k and bought a lamp from Lone Star Light Bulb Supply in Arlington, Texas. It was a MHL-1000 being a metal halide lamp and was $75.00. It has worked great for over 2 years and my exposures have remained consistent. Their phone is 817-633-6001. I dealt with Steve Madden...........................Tav

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brickbird View Post
    Ash.......I needed to replace my stock lamp in my 26 1k and bought a lamp from Lone Star Light Bulb Supply in Arlington, Texas. It was a MHL-1000 being a metal halide lamp and was $75.00. It has worked great for over 2 years and my exposures have remained consistent. Their phone is 817-633-6001. I dealt with Steve Madden...........................Tav
    Thanks Tav. I'll need to order a spare so I'll give that a try. I think either Sandy King or Jason Brunner may have used a metal halide replacement in their 26-1K as well and were happy with the results, but I don't remember any details.

    Regards,

    Ash

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    Quote Originally Posted by AshenLight View Post
    Thanks Tav. I'll need to order a spare so I'll give that a try. I think either Sandy King or Jason Brunner may have used a metal halide replacement in their 26-1K as well and were happy with the results, but I don't remember any details.

    Regards,

    Ash
    I used a Ushio metal halide bulb in my NuArc 26-1k. You can purchase the bulb from Freestyle for $49. http://www.freestylephoto.biz/500006...-Bulb?sc=24100

    Sandy King

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    That's the one, Sandy. Good price over what I paid but I was able to drive over and pick it up. I am still lusting for a new Amergraph ULF unit!....Tav

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