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  1. #11
    juan's Avatar
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    I agree with David - the albumen will last a long time with a bit of acid and refrigeration. I also float the paper for coating with albumen. But, I've found the Richeson 9010 to be the best way for me to apply sensitizer. Test to be sure you're applying the correct amount. I've found that different papers take different amounts.
    juan

  2. #12

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    OK, So I have sized the paper, and applied the Silver Nitrate. I am a bit concerned however because the paper started waving when I applied the Nitrate. Does this mean that I did not size the paper properly?

  3. #13
    juan's Avatar
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    I dry mine with a hair dryer set on the cool, unheated, position. The paper then curls a little, but the printing frame flattens it. You do know that the paper is good for only a few hours after sensitizing.
    juan

  4. #14
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Did you harden the albumen? Methods of hardening include aging, steaming, heating, and an alcohol bath. I usually make albumenized paper in large batches so that it ages, but I also steam it anyway to humidify the paper so that it is supple for sensitizing.

    I float the paper on the nitrate solution and let it drip dry, and it curls as it drips. Silver nitrate stains everything, so put a dropcloth or several layers of newspaper or something under the paper as it dries. Also, be sure to wear gloves, eye protection, and an apron when working with silver nitrate. I weight the corners so the paper surface isn't damaged as it dries.

    Normally I do this the night before printing. I consider the paper to be good for a day after sensitizing. I've tested sensitized paper that is months old, and it's actually usable, but it loses about two stops in speed, so it's not practical. It browns slightly as it ages, but that bleaches out in the toner and fixer.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  5. #15
    smieglitz's Avatar
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    You might also consider the combination of using the albumen for photography and the egg yolks for cooking. This is an excerpt from James Reilly's "The Albumen and Salted Paper Book":

    A HINT TO ALBUMENIZERS.
    What can you do with the yolks of your eggs? Make them into cheesecakes that will be pronounced unrivalled. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter in a basin placed on the hob, stir in a quarter pound of pounded lump sugar, and beat well together; then add the yolks of three eggs that have previously been well beaten; beat up all together thoroughly; throw in half of a grated nutmeg and a pinch of salt, stir, and lastly add the juice of two fine-flavored lemons and the rind of one lemon that has been peeled very thin; beat up all together, thoroughly, and pour into a dish lined with puff-paste, and bake for about twenty minutes. This is one of the pleasantest "bye-products" we are acquainted with in the economics of manufacturing photography. Try it!

    IIRC, Suda House had another recipe for a custard in her "Artistic Photographic Processes" book.

    Joe

  6. #16
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I use them for ice cream, custards, egg-based sauces, mayonnaise, ensaimadas, and other things. Take a look at Jacques Pépin's first American cookbook with Helen McCully, The Other Half of the Egg for lots of suggestions for what to do with just yolks or just whites--http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/068...SIN=0688001262.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  7. #17

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    Well, I tried 3 prints. This being fall break at U of M, I did not have access to the digital lab nor the wet lab to create enlarged negatives. Had to send them to Kinko's to be printed.

    The Result?

    Utter Failure.

    All three prints came out as nice big 5X7 blocks of solid rust red with no image on them. This was exposing in full sun for 30 mins, then 15, then about 8. I know the negatives were probably not dense enough, but this really annoys me when it comes to Alt. Process. I will try it again, but probably at the first of the year when I have more funding to work with.

  8. #18
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    If you've got some sensitized paper (trimmings will do), have you tried using your original negs? Even if you come up with 24x36mm prints, you may have something interesting. Kertesz made tiny contact prints early in his career. They're kind of astonishing to see in person when you've seen them larger for years in books.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  9. #19

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    I had not thought of that, I am using 645 Negatives so I will get tiny prints, but they might look interesting.

  10. #20
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    One of my favorites is a 6x6. It's the cover image in this album--

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum46/2...tml#post361649
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

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