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  1. #21
    Gene_Laughter's Avatar
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    Looks good to me! Slavich paper from Freestyle is another "bromoil friendly" paper that I use. It's a graded paper and I use the grade 2 matt for bromoil.

  2. #22
    Perry Way's Avatar
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    My Kentmere papers came in from Freestyle today. It's been one of those odd warm days for October on the Central Coast here (California). Apartment is still upwards of 75 degrees even at 12:42 AM so I haven't cracked open the paper yet to make new enlargements. Hoping that tomorrow morning bright and early it will be down to 65 or lower thus allowing me opportunity to develop some more. Meanwhile tonight I did some more inking. I tried to revive the print I horribly mangled the other night since it didn't seem so bad after it dried. Plus last night I did more inking on the other print I was having better success with. It has since dried to the touch and allowing me the opportunity to scan them both. I warn you, my scanner is a total piece of ... dog poo poo.. It puts a long streak down the center of everything it scans, plus the underside of the glass is not allowed to be cleaned but it is mottled over time. So this is where things stand so far. First image is the "good" one. Avila Beach Promenade. Second image is the "mangled" one, Turn of Century Horse Drawn Plow, Traver Ranch (I did a nice print of this and uploaded to Gallery a week or two ago. Thought it would look good as bromoil subject).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Image40.jpg   Image41.jpg  
    I love the wilderness and I love my trail cameras, all Fuji's! :) GA645, GW690 III, and the X100 which I think is the best trail camera ever invented (to date).

  3. #23
    Perry Way's Avatar
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    Okay, another entry in the ongoing series of bleaching and tanning. I'm experiencing the same thing with the Kentmere paper. Last night I exposed some prints. Today I got set up for bleaching/tanning. Just finished my first two prints. This time I have greater light in the room, so easier to see what's going on. Everything looked great during the bleaching process. Then slip into hypo and the prints get a smidgen darker, but not by much. Just ever so slightly darker. Maybe that's the tone difference going from straw to faint grey/green that I noticed. Now then I slip the prints into separate water baths for final wash. This is where one looks okay, although it is noticeably darker yet again, but the other one looks dark sepia toned. That one began as a print with a lot of blacks in it. I'm thinking the darker the original print, the greater the effect I'm seeing. Now, my worry at this point is that since that print darkened up considerably, will I be able to evenly apply ink on it in stages? How will I see the point when I should stop on the first and second and third application?

    So, my next question is a simple question. I'm hoping there is a simple answer. The question is: What could possibly cause the darkening of the print after fixing with plain hypo?
    I love the wilderness and I love my trail cameras, all Fuji's! :) GA645, GW690 III, and the X100 which I think is the best trail camera ever invented (to date).

  4. #24
    Perry Way's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1SharpMonkey View Post
    ...Now then I slip the prints into separate water baths for final wash. This is where one looks okay, although it is noticeably darker yet again, but the other one looks dark sepia toned. That one began as a print with a lot of blacks in it. I'm thinking the darker the original print, the greater the effect I'm seeing....
    I take it back. After I made this post, I went back into the bathroom to fetch the other print out and to hang for drying. This is when I saw that both of them are now darkened with sepia tone. Considerably. Both of them. Here's a snapshot with my Kodak digital camera to illustrate...

    I don't understand how this can happen, and would very much like to. All the matrices I've seen (in books and/or videos) have looked like the prints directly after I've finished bleaching/tanning. None look like this. Only mine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_0372a.JPG  
    I love the wilderness and I love my trail cameras, all Fuji's! :) GA645, GW690 III, and the X100 which I think is the best trail camera ever invented (to date).

  5. #25
    Gene_Laughter's Avatar
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    I assume the Kentmere Fineprint paper is neutral tone, not warmtone? I don't have a clue as to what you're doing wrong? I outlined my methodology and procedures in Bromoil 101 in great detail. Sorry, But I have too much on my plate keep up with you.

    Good luck! :>)

    Gene

  6. #26
    Perry Way's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene_Laughter View Post
    I assume the Kentmere Fineprint paper is neutral tone, not warmtone? I don't have a clue as to what you're doing wrong? I outlined my methodology and procedures in Bromoil 101 in great detail. Sorry, But I have too much on my plate keep up with you.

    Good luck! :>)

    Gene

    Yes, it is neutral tone. I understand being busy Gene. I appreciate your thoughts so far. I'm going to continue documenting this case on the off chance that it might benefit someone else some day.

    Now, I am experimenting and I think I am onto something. I took an identical image only printed one stop more open so it came out much darker and denser than the one I chose initially. I had initially set that one aside as "do not touch". But I experimented with reducing the strength of the hypo wash by diluting with more water. I then fixed with that dilution. And then washed it 30 minutes in water. The resulting image which began considerably darker than the first one came out in the end noticeably lighter and less sepia colored. Subsequent to that I've done another very dark print and reduced the time of the fixing from 5 minutes to 3.5 minutes and it has come out the lightest of the bunch. I've got two or three more prints I can experiment with.

    I am initially thinking the strength of the hypo fix might allow for a deeper image to be revealed. One that is not completely bleached away. This only comes to light in the very long final wash. It makes sense to me that way.
    I love the wilderness and I love my trail cameras, all Fuji's! :) GA645, GW690 III, and the X100 which I think is the best trail camera ever invented (to date).

  7. #27
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    I did the same last weekend bleach/tan with fineprint paper and it came out fine.

    My bleach/tan method:

    paper presoak 5 minutes
    10 minutes bleach/tan
    20 min wash
    5 minutes fix
    45 min final wash

    fix is thiosulfate 100gram for 1 liter.

    Be aware that this must be done under darkroom light!

  8. #28
    Perry Way's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willie Jan View Post
    Be aware that this must be done under darkroom light!
    Oh wow, maybe that's the problem I've been having. I've been operating with instructions that bleaching/tanning can be done in daylight. I did think at first that was not the way things should be since other bleaching operations must all be done in dark or safelight but since I read that the bromoil bleaching doesn't need safelight conditions I decided to avoid that because who likes to be in the dark? Hmmm.. I will give this a try.
    I love the wilderness and I love my trail cameras, all Fuji's! :) GA645, GW690 III, and the X100 which I think is the best trail camera ever invented (to date).

  9. #29
    Gene_Laughter's Avatar
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    Darkroom light? Meaning? I have bleached many hundreds of bromoil matrices ... and never under safelight conditions. I bleach them with a ceiling fluroescsent light on. I wouldn't allow sunlight in, but have never had a problem with redevelopment using indirect indoor lighting. Expose/develop/stop/rinse/fix/wash - and dry overnight. Soak 5 mins./bleach 8 mins./rinse/fix/wash.

  10. #30
    Perry Way's Avatar
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    Whew! Wipe the sweat off my brow.. I couldn't take it in the darkroom that long with the ambient temperature that it is.. Well, I just exposed and developed two prints, each one stop away from the other. I then bleached both but intermittently with the darker one going first. It would not completely bleach out so maybe that one was too dark to begin with. However after washing it while bleaching the other, it did get dimmer. I fixed the first print in hypo while the other was washing. It did darken up but nowhere near where it did before, just faintly. Anyway, I just got out of darkroom to get some fresh cold air. Soon as I cool down I'm going to fix the other print. Then we will see where this goes.
    I love the wilderness and I love my trail cameras, all Fuji's! :) GA645, GW690 III, and the X100 which I think is the best trail camera ever invented (to date).

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