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  1. #11

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    Interesting LED unit. OTOH, specifications say 405nm, not "real" UV. (By definition UV starts at 400nm and goes below...) Something in-between 350-370nm is what you're looking for!

    To parrot Dave & rmann, you can do one yourself (or have it done for you, by a handy friend...) pretty cheaply and easily! Mine - with 16x24" coverage - costed me something around USD 135, including the plywood structure (mimicking the B&S design exacly - w/o legs though...), high output electronic ballasts and 40W bulbs ect...

    Regards,
    Loris.

  2. #12
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
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    I've never used an UV LED light box before. But here's an idea on how to make one.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/UV-LED-Exposure-Box/

  3. #13
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    I have used a commercial screen printing exposure unit for many cyanotype and van dyke prints, before I had my own contact printing frame, and I still use it for very large (over 20x24 inch) prints (class projects). The unit has a vacuum pump and a pliable rubber cover to hold the sandwich tightly together. The exposure is adjustable in "units" – A.K.A. seconds. Not enough? Give it multiple blasts. They work fine. I lay down a sheet of diffusion material on the glass of the unit, then the glass, then the neg/s and/or objects, then the coated paper, emulsion side down, then a piece of plywood with rounded edges.

    Mind, you this is a commercial unit; it is large. It is about four feet deep, three feet wide, and five feet long. You have to go up a few steps to get a good working angle from the top. It may produce more exposure per second than one of these home hobbyist units.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  4. #14
    oldglass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loris Medici View Post
    Interesting LED unit. OTOH, specifications say 405nm, not "real" UV. (By definition UV starts at 400nm and goes below...) Something in-between 350-370nm is what you're looking for!

    To parrot Dave & rmann, you can do one yourself (or have it done for you, by a handy friend...) pretty cheaply and easily! Mine - with 16x24" coverage - costed me something around USD 135, including the plywood structure (mimicking the B&S design exacly - w/o legs though...), high output electronic ballasts and 40W bulbs ect...

    Regards,
    Loris.
    Thanks, Loris, that's probably my answer, a fact that I overlooked about the wavelength of the output light. Still, it's tempting to try if at 405nm, it still could trigger chemical reaction for alt. process.

    I know that the most sensible and economical answer is to build it yourself, but I'm still looking for easier answers. Plus, with half-finished DIY projects at hand, I need another one like I need a poke in the eye.
    Last edited by oldglass; 09-25-2010 at 09:48 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #15

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    A light integrator to control exposure is nice too; the output of tubes changes radically from cold to warm, so timing exposure is not always accurate.

  6. #16
    nsurit's Avatar
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    I got plans for a UV light box from a list member, built it and have been very satisfied with the results. The file is too large to attach here, however if you will send me an email, I'd be happy to share it with you. Bill Barber

  7. #17

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    I've never used one of these for alt photography, but I have used them for silk screens. I think there would be a difference noticeable in the prints similar to printing in the shade or in direct sunlight. This style of exposure box uses a single wicked bright bulb at the bottom of the unit, about 3 feet away from the surface.

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