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  1. #1

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    Help with Arches Platine

    Arches Platine paper (from England since I live in Europe) -> pure palladium + Na2 for contrast -> Pot. Oxalate developer -> three baths of citric acid ( 1.8 liters each with three teaspoons of citric, 5+ mins each bath) = prints come out badly yellowish, no way they clear properly, they're horrible. Blacks and everything else is fine, it's just the clearing. Any Arches Platine users could please share how do you clear this paper???

  2. #2

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    I use Heico Hypo Clearing bath...3 oz/gallon...NEVER ever had any problems clearing ANY paper
    Best, Peter

  3. #3

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    I use Arches Platine from Bostick & Sullivan with pt/pd and develop with Ammonium Citrate 1:3 H2O FOR 1 1/2 minutes, hose off gently with the paper on a sheet of acrylic, three 5 minute baths in EDTA ( 2 table spoons + sodium sulfite 1 table spoon in 2 liters H2O face down) then gentle wash for 20 minutes. Air dry on screens. Try it , it should work -- it does for me.

  4. #4

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    A couple of years ago I printed a limited edition series of pt/pd/au prints ( total of 12ea plus artist proof and printers proof ) 56 prints on Crane's Platinotype which is simlilar to Platine fo a photographer named Mario Algaze - check him out on the web. He has an eye like an eagle! I will now only print for myself!!! I have a portfolio on APUG. Some of my images I have also printed in pt/pd/au 4x5 as well as having enlarged negatives.

  5. #5
    Don12x20's Avatar
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    Try making the first clearing bath of EDTA (DiSodium, not Tetrasodium), followed by two Citric baths.
    My personal preference over Citric Acid baths is three baths...
    1st of EDTA (Disodium)
    2nd EDTA (Tetra sodium) or Citric Acid.
    3rd Kodak HCA (or substitute Sodium Sulfite).

    Using this, I've never had yellows with many, many years (since 1988) of Platine + Pt/Pd.
    Last edited by Don12x20; 12-22-2009 at 05:54 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #6

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    I had the same problem when I first started using Platine in the mid '90s. None of the single ingredient clearing baths would work, no matter how strong or how long.

    Kodak HCA (or similar hypo clearing products) used at regular working strength (as for film or paper) in the usual method of 3 successive clearing baths should do the trick.

    To make your own clearing bath from scratch I suggest the following:
    2 Liters water
    2 Tbsp EDTA (tetrasodium)
    1 Tbsp citric acid
    1 Tbsp sodium sulfite
    Add the ingredients in the order given and be sure each has fully dissolved before adding the next. The citric acid converts the EDTA to the more reactive disodium form. The sulfite seems to be the critical ingredient in getting Platine to clear properly.

    Also try eliminating the water rinse between the developer and first clearing bath. In my experience, it actually has an adverse effect on clearing.

    Hope this helps,
    Keith
    www.jkschreiber.com
    Don't believe everything you think.

    jkschreiber.com

  7. #7

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    Thank you for your help! I have tons of citric acid and a few bags of Kodak HCA. These two chemicals alone must do the job for I have no chance to buy other products until new year and I have to print before that. Any hint on how to mix them i.e. without EDTA? However you guys recommend not to try further with citric acid alone (more concentrate, more time etc.), right?

    I am so disappointed right now, I have been using citric acid for years with Cranes, Socorro and even Gampi without any problem. Now that my favorite Cranes Crest (the equivalent of Cranes Platinotype in Europe) is no more available I find myself with deadlines and no way to make a decent print.

  8. #8
    scootermm's Avatar
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    Another suggestion... (if using Pot. Ox Dev) .... try leaving the print in the developer for 5+mins.
    The longer time spent in the developer has always helped facilitate better and more efficient clearing for me in every instance and all the diff papers I've worked with, especially the more difficult to clear papers.

    Also, another combo for the clearing baths that works well for me.
    1st bath: Citric Acid mixed into some hot water (bunch per gallon)
    2nd and 3rd baths (basically HCA recipe) A bunch of Sodium Sulfite and a bit of Sodium Metabisulfite per gallon of hot water.
    Last edited by scootermm; 12-22-2009 at 07:52 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: some recs for clearing baths
    Nigel Tufnel: It's like, how much more black could this be? and the answer is none.
    None more black.

  9. #9

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    I agree with scootermm that leaving the print in the developer longer than the usually specified 2 minutes is beneficial. I find 3 minutes to be about right (but longer shouldn't hurt) and that most of the yellow is removed by this point, at least with K Ox developer.

    Since you have Kodak HCA and citric acid on hand, first try clearing in 3 successive baths of HCA diluted 1:4 from stock. If that doesn't do the job, add some citric acid to it - maybe 1 tbsp per 2 liters.

    Please let us know what ends up working for you.

    - Keith
    Don't believe everything you think.

    jkschreiber.com

  10. #10
    Davec101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luca View Post
    Arches Platine paper (from England since I live in Europe) -> pure palladium + Na2 for contrast -> Pot. Oxalate developer -> three baths of citric acid ( 1.8 liters each with three teaspoons of citric, 5+ mins each bath) = prints come out badly yellowish, no way they clear properly, they're horrible. Blacks and everything else is fine, it's just the clearing. Any Arches Platine users could please share how do you clear this paper???
    I've always used Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent (30grams per litre) with Arches Platine and have not had problems clearing, i tried citric acid baths initially but like you I was left with a yellow stain. Kodak HCA will do the trick.
    Platinum Printing Editions http://www.dceditions.com
    The Art of Platinum Printing Blog http://artofplatinum.wordpress.com/
    Alternative Photographic Processes blog http://altphotoblog.com/

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