Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,901   Posts: 1,584,527   Online: 1050
      
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Indiana
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    4

    Liquid Emulsions on Metal

    So. I have this crazy urge to print some of my 35mm negatives on metal using Liquid Light. I have the hardening fixer and a few types of metal. Does anyone know what the best kind is to use? I found quite a bit of sheet copper that I really like, but have no idea how it will react in the D-76, stop bath, and fixer. Any ideas?

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Winnipeg, Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,301
    Copper reacts to both strong alkalies and acids. I'd clean the copper and coat it with a couple of coats of a clear spray on finish before adding the liquid emulsion.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA (Los Angeles)
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    67
    Don't consider me a silver emulsion on metal expert..... I did some initial test and then decided the medium didn't match what I was try to make......

    Here is what I found. Steel (plain or stainless) and aluminum worked best for me. All the metals I tried needed a sealer/basecoat. The best I found was Cabot Semi-Gloss Polyurethane spray. Sold in the USA at Lowes big-box stores as a wood sealer. The Cabot glossy didn't work as well. Avoid Liquid Light for printing on metal (didn't adhere well), I had far far far better results with Kentmere Liquid B&W Emulsion (the single contrast version). Available from Freestyle in the USA. Avoid any of the (it sounds soooooo good) variable contrast emulsions, they were are radically flat and almost "fogged" looking on metal.

    Again, I didn't get far with this project because the reality of the process didn't match the vision in my head. I can see how with the right images it would be a great process. Bottom line, take what I've written here as suggestions... NOT as proven fact!

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    33
    I don't have any chemical advice to offer, but I don't think it will give good results. You should use anything that is either white or transparent/translucent. The highlights will never be any brighter than the metal.
    If you are considering switching to digital, ask yourself this: What would Ansel do?

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2

    PLEASE CAN YOU HELP ME!!!

    I HAVE TO do a work up of my reaction and whan ı come to the lab. ı realized that there was not any sodium bisulfate...
    what can ı use instead of sodium bi sulfate ı use it to neutralize4 the pyridine in my reaction media....

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2
    hi... do you know what can ı use instead of sodium bisulfate to neutralize pyridine

  7. #7
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    23,544
    Images
    65
    Gwen;

    PYRADINE in a photographic medium? Hardly usual. Any strong acid, diluted enough can neutralize pyridine, but disposing of the mixture will be your problem. It is quite toxic. The vapors are not nice nor is the liquid itself which is a strong organic base and is quite corrosive. It is also reported to be a carcinogen and a mutagen so take care. In the 60s, there were reported cases of sterility in humans due to exposure.

    Neutralization will generate heat and fumes. Wear a mask, gloves, goggles and try to work in a hood to remove vapors.

    PE

  8. #8
    Ian Grant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    West Midlands, UK, and Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    16,435
    Images
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob-D659 View Post
    Copper reacts to both strong alkalies and acids. I'd clean the copper and coat it with a couple of coats of a clear spray on finish before adding the liquid emulsion.
    I spent years coating all sorts of surfaces with liquid emulsions commercially. Your suggestions are on the right lines, seal the metal surface, acrylic lacquers work best, give 2-3 good coats, dry for as long as possible at least a day minimum but 2-3 or more is better, then rub down with wet 1200 or 600 grit Wet & Dry paper to allow the emulsion to key on to the surface. Then coat.

    Ian



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin