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  1. #21

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    Sep 2005
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    Istanbul, Turkey
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    The rule of thumb was to use a EI value equal to ISO paper speed / 100 IIRC...

    This paper has a relatively higher speed than the others. Unfiltered P640 -> EI 6-7, filtered P250 -> EI 2-3. (w/ filters between 00 and 3.)

    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    Try a yellow filter. It will make all the difference in latitude (but cuts the speed in half).

  2. #22

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    Mar 2003
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    Some years ago I found at a surplus store several hundred sheets of single weight 20X24" Kodabromide, single weight, grade 3 and bought it for next to nothing. It seems to work nicely for making paper negatives as it prints nicely with no weave pattern. I rate it at ASA 4 and develop in D72 1:4. The base density of the paper is log 0.60 so shadow density will be a minimum of about log 0.90. This makes exposures about three stops more than film.

    Dmax will get up to about log 2.9 with light objects on a sunny day so yous get a DR of about 1.8 or 1.9, which is nice for printing with a UV process that requires a contrasty negative.

    Sandy King

  3. #23

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    Some years ago I found at a surplus store several hundred sheets of single weight 20X24" Kodabromide, single weight, grade 3 and bought it for next to nothing. It seems to work nicely for making paper negatives as it prints nicely with no weave pattern. I rate it at ASA 4 and develop in D72 1:4. The base density of the paper is log 0.60 so shadow density will be a minimum of about log 0.90. This makes exposures about three stops more than film.

    Dmax will get up to about log 2.9 with light objects on a sunny day so you get a DR of about 1.8 or 1.9, which is nice for printing with a UV process that requires a contrasty negative.

    Sandy King

  4. #24
    Joe VanCleave's Avatar
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    Jan 2004
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    Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
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    I use Freestyle's Arista brand grade 2 paper, rate it at EI=12, with the caveat that the developer be freshly mixed at 1:15 at 68f, and I also perform a slight preflash.

    For daylight exposures the EI=12 recommendation with this paper works out pretty linearly, from bright sunny exposures to deeply shaded, regardless of whether the camera has a f/300 pinhole or a f/8 glass lens.

    Where the metering gets wonky is indoor, incandescent lit still-lifes, where there's very little blue/UV in the light source, thus the light source's spectrum doesn't match the paper's response curve very well, and my handheld meter is full-spectrum sensitivity. I've thought of placing some sort of blue filter over the meter and doing a set of calibration tests under incandescent lighting.

    ~Joe

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