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  1. #1

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    kallitype questions

    ok i have started a project that i am printing on platinum toned kallitypes.

    i am using sodium acetate (200g per 1 ltr) developer with no potassium dichromate.

    my prints are turning out ok so far however some of them are proving quite hard to clear in my citric acid clearing baths

    The reason i havent used dichromate are the obvious health implications it can have. at the rate of 6ml of 2% dichromate per 1 ltr of developer how dangerous is it?

    my main concern is that the room i have to print in isnt very well ventilated and the results i have had without the dichromate havent been too bad so far.

    also at the moment i am mixing up a 1ltr batch of developer, pouring all the developer over the print and then pouring it back into the bottle and using it until my highlights dont clear. is this the right way to do it?

    if i replenished the developer with 100ml of fresh developer every 100 square inches do i just pour 100ml of developer away for every 4 5x5" prints i am doing, and then replace with 100ml of fresh developer?

    sorry i know it may sound like a really dumb question!

  2. #2
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    Hi, I love kallitype printing and especially tone in Pd/Pt. Clearing of the prints has more to do with what paper you are using (which) you don't mention. Citric acid clearing bath should effectively clear most suitable papers easily. Dichromate when used carefully( mix under a vent hood or outside ... better yet buy in liquid pre-mix... and use nitrile gloves) is okay. I use my developer forever by simply pouring through a filter after each use back into the bottle. I replace the loss with fresh developer when the vol loss is about 250 ml. Wolfgang Moersch has a great tutorial on kallitype here: http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/co...nleitungen/136 and Sandy King has a good one here: http://www.alternativephotography.co...litype-process . Lastly, the fixer matters a lot ! I use T4 (NH4) and don't have worry about any bleaching that seems to happen with thiosulfate.
    Miles :
    cherish light

  3. #3

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    ahh i love the idea of filtering the developer! I have a load of filter jug cartridges around here somewhere do i will use those.

    do you have a recipe for the T4 (NH4) fixer?

    I use fabriano artistico extra white that i have acidified in a 3% oxcalic acid bath.

    i have just posted a few of the images that are waiting to be hand painted on my blog.

    here is the link: http://mdavenportphotography.blogspot.com/

    feel free to drop by and take a look. I would also love some feedback on them if anyone has any time. also if anyone here has a blog with some alternative work please let me know as i would love to follow some other peoples work as well.

  4. #4
    MVNelson's Avatar
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    sorry I meant TF-4 fixer by Photographer's Formulary ... great for film , especially pyro films and papers. Yes any stable filter should work fine. Sometimes I just let the developer sit a week and decant the clear and leave the sludge behind.
    Miles :
    cherish light

  5. #5
    MVNelson's Avatar
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    I just viewed your blog and noticed your notes. You will not have to over expose and guess about how much bleaching may or may not occur with TF-4. I fix for 1.5 to 2 minutes and wash 20 minutes. Your project looks like you have gotten a good start !

    Miles
    Miles :
    cherish light

  6. #6

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    Took a look at your blog and your images look great. The three you have posted don't look like they have stained highlights. You can test if your getting staining by putting something like a cut off piece of film leader along the border, see if it stains under that. If your having a hard time clearing, then try omitting the water rinse after development and go straight to the clearing bath. I usually clear with 2 citric acid baths, but I have resorted to a mix of EDTA and Sodium Sulfite for a second clearing bath on stubborn prints. Also if your toning with pt or pd or gold, then usually your print won't bleach in the fixer. I'm assuming your toning prior to fixing.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by MVNelson View Post
    I just viewed your blog and noticed your notes. You will not have to over expose and guess about how much bleaching may or may not occur with TF-4. I fix for 1.5 to 2 minutes and wash 20 minutes. Your project looks like you have gotten a good start !

    Miles
    What dilution do you use of the TF-4 to fix kallitype prints?

    Sandy

  8. #8
    MVNelson's Avatar
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    Sandy, I use TF-4 @ the same dilution for silver gelatin paper 1 part fixer to 3 parts distilled water.

    Miles
    Miles :
    cherish light

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by MVNelson View Post
    Sandy, I use TF-4 @ the same dilution for silver gelatin paper 1 part fixer to 3 parts distilled water.

    Miles
    Miles,

    Thanks. I would have thought a solution that strong would bleach the silver image. I use a similar formula for fixing negatives and will try it with kallitype later this summer.

    Sandy

  10. #10

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    I think Miles(?) is taking about fixing already toned prints... I don't think untoned kallitype / vandyke and argyrotype can withstand regular strength fixer at all!...???

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