I'd eventually love to do 8x10 pt/pd prints, but I think I'm going to start with 4x5 while I am honing my craft
I guess I would like to hear more details about this brush you are talking about. I have been using Hake brushes.
I am having cutting and pasting issues today! here is the link to the brush I was askign about.
It is a brush with synthetic bristles, you wet it, shake a few times and it spreads the solution on the paper without absorbing any of the solution. It is really cool, I started with Hake brushes and let me tell you, the difference is like night and day. I strongly recommend you get it. Cheap Joe seems to have the best price.
Originally Posted by Ray Bidegain
From what I understand it is designed for watercolor painters to spread the water on their paper.
Cheap Joe's does have the best price and they also have a very competitive price (not sure if it's the best) on the Winsor & Newton watercolors that you can use to spot pt/pd. Buy it all at once and don't pay shipping twice! The only downside to Cheap Joe's is that the largest Richeson 9010 they carry and sell is the 2" brush.
Jorge, I wouldn't say that my brush strokes are uneven, just unpracticed
Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!
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What is the age of your FO? FO#1 is my usual suspect when things go bad.
The other thing to consider is the amount of sensitizer on the paper. Strangely enough, I have had poor results when I am using too much sensitizer. The evidence of this is that the paper has a metallic, shiny look to it. If I remember correctly, too much sensitizer "bridges" across the fibers and you get too much metal on the paper surface, thus it looks shiny. This happened to me around the edges of the image, because that is where the sensitizer was coated more.
I humidify the paper prior to coating and again before printing. I still use a coating rod. It works for me.
The temperature of the Potassium Oxalate developer is not an issue. I normally use it between 95 and 100 degrees F.
Learning hand coating does take practice. As you go along, you must take notes on what you have done. It's a science experiment for sure. So, you have to take notes to know what you have done and figure out what variables can be experimented with. Since it is your money being spent on this, you see how important it is to make sure that you develop consistent craft and procedures.
Keep at it, you will find out how to handle this process.
I keep promising myself to learn the 'chemistry' behind pt/pd printing, but until then, I have always been under the assumption that the total drop count of the salts should equal the total for the ferric. I have been single coating, 15 fo, 15 pd or 15 fo 14 pd 1 pt. I will try increasing the pt, but Jorge, is there a point of diminishing returns? What is the advantage of more salt than ferric? Doesn't some of the metal salts not reduce in this case? Thanks. ...lyle
Originally Posted by Jorge
Lallan, in my case it is not science, it is more like rumors. I had read in the B&S web site that too much sensitizer caused mottling and it was a problem I was having, so I tried reducing the amount of sensitize and it worked for me.
Originally Posted by lallan
Joe above has a good explanation for not using too much sensitizer, I do see that metallic "sheen" sometimes when the print is dry. I did not know it was because of too much FO, learn something new everyday!
In any case, dont be afraid to take off 2 or 3 drops of FO, more than that I would not try. Besides, FO is cheap compared to pt or pd.....so back off only to improve your print, not to save on it.
Hope this helps.
I may have lead some folks astray here. When I talked of too much sensitizer, I meant the entire combined solution of FO#1, NA2 and Pt/Pd. If there are too many metallic salts in the total sensitizer volume you may get the shiny metallic finish where there is too much solution put on the paper.
Hope that clears things up.
I have one more question about the magic brush, how long does it take to be ready to use again. My main complaint about the hake has been waiting till i'ts dry to use again.