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  1. #1
    Mateo's Avatar
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    Palladium solarizing

    Can too high temperature of the Potassium Oxalate developer cause solarization. I just got a new heater unit for the developer and used it hotter than normal (normal would be +/- 100deg F). I really like the warm color but could do without the solarizing rebate area.

    Just to make sure there are no obvious red flag issues, this is what I'm using:
    Cranes Platinotype
    18 drops FO #1
    18 drops Pd
    2 drops Na2
    Brush coating

    This is a negative that I have printed a bunch and haven't had troubles with before. I could do the trial and error to make sure that the dev temp is the issue but maybe someone could learn me a little.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mateo
    Can too high temperature of the Potassium Oxalate developer cause solarization. I just got a new heater unit for the developer and used it hotter than normal (normal would be +/- 100deg F). I really like the warm color but could do without the solarizing rebate area.

    Just to make sure there are no obvious red flag issues, this is what I'm using:
    Cranes Platinotype
    18 drops FO #1
    18 drops Pd
    2 drops Na2
    Brush coating

    This is a negative that I have printed a bunch and haven't had troubles with before. I could do the trial and error to make sure that the dev temp is the issue but maybe someone could learn me a little.
    This is for what size Mateo? I see solarizing when I use only one coat, as I use only 8 drops FO, 7 drops pd and 2 pt. This coat is too thin and I usually get solarized prints. When I double coat it goes away. I suggest you try double coating. I have heard some people divide the drop number and add water instead, but I have not tried it. In my experience developer temperature does not produce solarization..I have used it really, really hot..almost boiling and did not have this problem, what I did notcie is that when it is too hot, you get an awful veil on the print once it dries down.

    Good luck....

  3. #3
    Mateo's Avatar
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    Don Jorge,

    This is for 8x10. Are you using 17 total drops with a brush? In his book Arentz says 45-60 drops for 8x10 but I wouldn't know what to do with the puddles.

    I wasn't thinking well. There was another new variable-I just started to print in batches of 5 and they were sitting longer before I put the blow dryer to them. I just tried again and blow dried it as soon as it looked flat and no more solarizing. I should have guessed it had something to do with the moisture because the solarized prints were printing out too much.

  4. #4

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    Yes Mateo, with the Richeson 9010 brush, you save a lot of solution, but as I said, you can over do it and get too thin a coat.
    The Arentz book gives these amounts for Hake brushes, they absorb way too much solution. I dont know if he will inlcude the "magic brush" in his new edition.
    Trust me on this one, if you can get one! Clay turned me onto this brush and it is one of the best things he could have done for me.

  5. #5
    Mateo's Avatar
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    Thanks Jorge

    Cheap Joe is now mailing one 2" brush to cheap me.

  6. #6
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    Wow, Jorge, I'm impressed: you're using half the drops I am for coating an 8x10! Then again I'm also doing only one coat. I may try halving my drops and doing two coats to see if that makes a difference.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

    blog
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Moore
    Wow, Jorge, I'm impressed: you're using half the drops I am for coating an 8x10! Then again I'm also doing only one coat. I may try halving my drops and doing two coats to see if that makes a difference.
    LOL..are you saying you are impressed with how cheap I am?...

    If you are using the Richeson brush, I found that was too much solution, at least for me. I had to brush too long to let all the solution soak. So I went with half that and it has worked for me. I dont know if it will work in where you are, dont know how humid it is, but I found out 2 coats dried faster than one heavy coat.

    OTOH if Clay showed you one coat, and is working for you, stick with it until you get really good. As you might be learning you have to do things consistently to get the same result, otherwise it all goes to crap. In the end you end up using the same amount, stick with what works and then experiment when you have a consistent method.

    When I coat, I do it on one foot and one hand on top of my head, I did it like that the first time so I figure oughta keep on doing it like that just in case..

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge
    Yes Mateo, with the Richeson 9010 brush, you save a lot of solution, but as I said, you can over do it and get too thin a coat.
    The Arentz book gives these amounts for Hake brushes, they absorb way too much solution. I dont know if he will inlcude the "magic brush" in his new edition.
    Trust me on this one, if you can get one! Clay turned me onto this brush and it is one of the best things he could have done for me.
    Is this the brush you are talking about Jorge? What size is best? Eagerly awaiting Amazon's delivery of Dick's book.

    Brian
    hi!

  9. #9
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    I'm thinking that doing two light coats instead of one heavier coat might even out my crappy brushing
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  10. #10

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    Yes Brian, I bought the 4 inch one because it is best for my 8x10 and 12x20, since you got your new toy I guess you will be using 8x10, and I would recommend the 4 inch one. If you plan to do smaller then the 2 inch is best for 4x5 and 5x7.

    Jeremy, in my experience evident brush strokes are a sign of low humidity, when I have low humidity even with two coats I get crappy brush strokes. I ruined 2 12x20s like this. If you are seeing this too often then perhaps running the paper a little over steam will help you. I hope Joe or Clay chime in, I am not really that expereinced, I am lucky that I found a way that works for me and I stick to it.

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