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  1. #11

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    San Francisco
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    17
    I can dodge and burn some whereas in a UV box I really can't accomplish it with out increasing the distance between my neg and lights which would cause me to stand there for toooo long.

    You can dodge and burn with UV light and little distance. Use rubylitch masks which offer FAR more precision than using your hands anyway. If a rubylith mask is laid on top of the glass, the slight distance to the print is enough to soften the edges so you don't get hard egdes on the dodge/burn areas. I cut a mask recently for an 8x10 neg (I do them for 4x5's, too) which effectively dodged electric wires going every which direction and bruned small, precise areas I could never have succesfully done with my hands.

    Secondlyt, if you are printing with Pt/Pd consider Super Actinic bulbs which are at least a stop faster than traditional BLB's (very nice with pyro developed negs). SA's can be found at a good light supply store or ordered from Universal Light Source in San Francisco (ask for Doug, tell him I sent you and I don't get a dime for referrals!) or they also sell SA's for aquariums. SA's have a narrow output range right around 415nm and are great for Pt/Pd and POP and maybe others that I've not experimented with.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Bezerkeley, CA
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    Ive never used rubylith(?) masking I've wanted to try though, would I find this at an art store? I've thought about the SA's but I would have to get new balasts as well (I think), still might be a good option to explore, faster is better right?

    With the Rubylith your cutting it to match where you want to dodge and burn right?

    Happy Days
    You can't be lost if you don't care where you are.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenville, SC
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinn
    I've thought about the SA's but I would have to get new balasts as well (I think), still might be a good option to explore, faster is better right?

    Happy Days
    You could use Super Actinic tubes in the same ballast so long as they are normal output tubes, i.e. 20 watts for the 24" tubes, 40 watts for the 48" tubes. However, you should not use High Output (HO) or Very High Output (VHO) tubes of any type in regular ballast.

    Sandy King

  4. #14

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by shinn
    Ive never used rubylith(?) masking I've wanted to try though, would I find this at an art store? I've thought about the SA's but I would have to get new balasts as well (I think), still might be a good option to explore, faster is better right?

    With the Rubylith your cutting it to match where you want to dodge and burn right?

    Happy Days
    As Sandy said, 20 watt 24" tubes should use the same ballasts you have.

    Rubylith can be found at better art supply stores or probably online, like at Daniel Smith. I tape my neg to the light table and tape a sheet of reubylith over it, trace the areas I want to cut out (for burning) or leave intact (for dodging) and then cut the rubylith (NEVER over the neg in case you cut through the rubylith. You only need to score the rubylith the cut away the red part and a swivelling x-acto knife works great because you can make precise tight turns with it. good luck

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Bezerkeley, CA
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    92
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    1
    Thanks everyone,

    I ended up with a new rack of BLB's. First I had purchased some sylvania Grolux/Aqua lights, DO NOT BUY THESE it was a Big, Big mistake 1.5 (should have been 2) hour exposures vs. 5-10min (Ziatype's) with the BLB lights one inch from the top of the frame. Also, there seems to have been some sort of change in the labeling of flourcents, now they are Cool and warm, bright...confusing.

    Found some Rubylith as well, does the portion of the image that is being dodged get any exposure at all?

    Happy Days
    You can't be lost if you don't care where you are.

  6. #16
    Stan. L-B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    London & Friars Cliff Dorset UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinn
    In a recent move I broke most of my BLB(black light) lights. I've used the BLB's for a couple years now and wonder what lights others are using and why. The white lights are way cheaper than the BLB's. I print in many different processes but plan to concentrate on Ziatype for now. I'm also thinking about getting an HID unit and wonder if its a better option? I will be printing up to 11X14. Thanks.

    Happy Days

    Hello Shinn.

    I query your idea of BLB. You say thay are black light which is not as I understand. A BLACK LIGHT is usually designated by BL not BLB which is black light BLUE.
    The BL bulbs emit enough UV light that requires relitively short exposures, whereas, BLB bulbs emit less UV. The BLB bulbs are also more expensive.
    Do you have any other ideas? Thanks Stan. L-B.
    'Determine on some course more than a wild exposure to each chance' The Bard.

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