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  1. #11
    Marek Warunkiewicz's Avatar
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    @sanking

    Hi again!

    Another great shot. The tones seem so lush. I just purchased 5 grams of gold chloride and am hoping to make some gold toner next week.

    Thanks for the inspiration.

    Marek
    Marek Warunkiewicz

  2. #12

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    Great images/prints Sandy. They've made me (almost!) want to return to iron-silver printing...

  3. #13

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    Weston paper is great for vandykes and trad. cyanotypes BTW; it has just right amnt. of absorption, therefore gives no bleeding and very good Dmax...

  4. #14

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    Sandy,

    Thanks for the great advice. I have been concentrating on selenium toning for much of my previous work but have a litre of Tetenal gold toner which for some reason I have never got round to using. I will use it for the VDB prints I am doing. I also made up some argyrotype solution last night so will give that a crack too. Trying to get to the bottom of what's in Tetenal toner actually contains is not easy. There is nothing on the container to say what the gold content is but it does say that it contains thiourea which is good as I too like the darker blue-black effect rather than the sepia. Unfortunately, unlike other toners it does not come with an instructions sheet.

    One of the issues I have is that some of the literature on gold toning VDB prints say it is best to have a weak toning solution (especially when using selenium). I don't know if I should use the Tetanal as it is or dilute it further. I guess I just have to experiment. As an aside, not having used gold toner before how do you know when it's exhausted? Is it just a case of noting when there is no longer a colour shift. Sorry for the less than technical questions, I need to keep things really simple for my small brain!

    Again though, thanks for the kind support.

  5. #15

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    Two strategies there:
    1. Use fresh toner single shot - in a flat tray just larger than your print, with very little toner; say... err ... something like 25ml per 8x10" print.
    2. Re-use the toner until toning time becomes impractical; >15 minutes, for instance.

    I'd go for #1 - best way for consistency. Gold-thiourea toner isn't that much expensive when you compound it yourself.

    Regards,
    Loris.

  6. #16

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    Thanks Loris,

    Good advice. I actually would like to mix my own but I am struggling to find a place in UK where I can purchase gold-chloride. Don't know if anyone else has had that problem.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac064 View Post
    \
    One of the issues I have is that some of the literature on gold toning VDB prints say it is best to have a weak toning solution (especially when using selenium). I don't know if I should use the Tetanal as it is or dilute it further. I guess I just have to experiment. As an aside, not having used gold toner before how do you know when it's exhausted? Is it just a case of noting when there is no longer a colour shift.
    The recommendation to use a weak toning solution is based on the fact that most people want to use Rapid Selenium and in strong concentration it will bleach the image. Unfortunately in weak concentrations it won't tone enough to protect the print so my advice is to forget selenium.

    My guess is that the Tetenal gold toner will work more or less like the Clerc's Thiourea Gold Toner. I would recommend using it one shot at full strength one shot and discard. If you use a flat bottom tray you will only need 20ml-30ml per 8X10 sheet, which makes it fairly economical.

    In the future you will find it more economical to buy the gold chloride, thiourea, tartaric acid and sodium chloride (table salt without iodide) and mix your own gold toner.

    Vandyke is not as paper sensitive as argyrotype but even so you will get much better results with some papers than with others. As with pt/pd printing some papers give much better Dmax if you soak them in a weak acid solution, say 1% citric acid.

    Argyrotype, kallitype and vandyke need very little fixing as the silver salts that are not used to form the image wash away easily. Two or three minutes in a plain 3% sodium thiosulfate solution is plenty.

    A print toned with one of the metal salts will have a large percentage of the silver replaced by the toning metal, but not all of it, and if you fix too long you will reduce the remaining silver metal in the print, which will weaken it. Fixing will not reduce the noble metal of course.

    Sandy King

  8. #18
    nze
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    Double toning may convert all the silver in other metal. A Palladium or platinum toning convert about 90% of the silver in noble metal. If you make a second toning you have a great archival print.
    Chris Nze
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    My guess is that the Tetenal gold toner will work more or less like the Clerc's Thiourea Gold Toner.
    Quote Originally Posted by nze View Post
    Double toning may convert all the silver in other metal. A Palladium or platinum toning convert about 90% of the silver in noble metal. If you make a second toning you have a great archival print.
    If the Tetenal toner indeed contains thiourea next to gold chloride, it is probably already a very effective and archival double toner. Thiourea will convert the non-gold replaced silver to very stable silversulfide (Ag2S).
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  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
    If the Tetenal toner indeed contains thiourea next to gold chloride, it is probably already a very effective and archival double toner. Thiourea will convert the non-gold replaced silver to very stable silversulfide (Ag2S).
    Marco,

    Would you direct me to a source in the literature that discusses conversion of the non-gold replaced silver to silversulfide with gold thiorea toners? I am very interested in reading more.

    Sandy

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