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  1. #1

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    lifespan of Tannic acid in solution?

    I just mixed up some tanic acid toner and I was wondering if I could keep it for use at a later time.

    I mixed up the toner as:
    25grams of tanic acid to 200ml of water

    Great results so far, i'm bleaching with borax 35 grams to 500 ml, 15 min wash, tanic acid till color is achived. Instead of browns, im getting warm blacks. They look fantastic I'll share some examples when their dry

  2. #2

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    Is this for cyanotype? Traditional or Type II? Are you bleaching completely or only partially?

    I'm looking forward toward trying this in a month or so when I get some time. Looking forward to you sharing some images...

    --Greg

  3. #3

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    Yup, this is for traditional. And I just got surprised as all heck when a batch on a different paper turned a GORGEOUS purple/brown. I'm getting some surface stain, so I lose my perfect whites, but the rest of the tonality is preserved. In fact, the shadows are now deeper than they were before, so it could be argued that im expanding the contrast. Next time I mix up tanic acid, i'm going to halve the strength and see if I can control the toning better. Pics will be posted tomorrow

    I'm going to throw my solution into a bottle and we'll see if it keeps a week

  4. #4

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    Alex, use hard papers with surface sizing to minimize stain, plus, use a more dilute toner; 25g in 200ml water is pretty strong - I was mixing my tannic acid toner by putting 1 dessert spoon into 1000ml only! You don't need to see the result "in the toner", 5 to 10 minutes toning is plenty enough; the print will darken considerably while drying. You'll experience less stain if you keep your toning times as short as possible.

    Also, it's crucial to process well the paper before toning. You have to clear iron from the whites completely; do normal development then use a citric acid or Na2.EDTA or Na4.EDTA + citric acid (target pH 3-4) clearing bath to eliminate all iron from your paper to protect the whites. If not, you'll get extra stained highlights. (In every parts of the paper where the sensitizer was applied - actually...)

    The toner solution keeps for months IME, I was occasionally filtering it to clear debris and such.

    BTW, tannic acid / tannin toning works well with both Trad. Cyanotype and New Cyanotype.

    Hope this helps,
    Loris.
    Last edited by Loris Medici; 06-17-2010 at 02:45 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added few more options of clearing baths...

  5. #5

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    See one of my best examples below:



    Cappadocia
    (Split toned new cyanotype)

    Regards,
    Loris.

  6. #6
    Marco B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loris Medici View Post
    See one of my best examples below:

    Regards,
    Loris.
    Gorgeous split tone print Loris! Definitely got to try out Cyanotype and toning once...
    My website

    "The nineteenth century began by believing that what was reasonable was true, and it wound up by believing that what it saw a photograph of, was true." - William M. Ivins Jr.

    "I don't know, maybe we should disinvent color, and we could just shoot Black & White." - David Burnett in 1978

    "Analog is chemistry + physics, digital is physics + math, which ones did you like most?"

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Loris Medici View Post
    See one of my best examples below:



    Cappadocia
    (Split toned new cyanotype)

    Regards,
    Loris.
    If you could only hear how many times I just said 'hmm' and 'ahh'

    So much was answered I thought the tanic acid was strong, but thats what was recommended in christopher james book. I will make a note to try that with a lighter dilution. I experienced surface stain where there was no cyanotype chemistry- definitely due to the high concentration of tannic acid. I'll be sure to add the citric acid when coating more absorbent material like the canson paper.

    PS. everyone needs to try coating on the epson premium luster paper. Its so easy, perfect color, gorgeous luster, and its basically plastic so washing is easy, it cant fall appart.

  8. #8
    Marco B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexhill View Post
    So much was answered
    You may find this recent thread I started interesting as well:

    Chemistry of tea-toning cyanotypes:
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum42/7...yanotypes.html

    Marco
    My website

    "The nineteenth century began by believing that what was reasonable was true, and it wound up by believing that what it saw a photograph of, was true." - William M. Ivins Jr.

    "I don't know, maybe we should disinvent color, and we could just shoot Black & White." - David Burnett in 1978

    "Analog is chemistry + physics, digital is physics + math, which ones did you like most?"

  9. #9

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    That Epson Premium luster suggestion is very interesting Alex. Will try that -> it gives very good dmax compared to Canson. (Perhaps due to less surface scattering...) Could be a nice suggestion for workshop participants...

    Regards,
    Loris.

  10. #10

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    I make up tannic acid analytical standard solutions at 1000 parts per million and they certainly last a year. You should have no problems from the stability of tannic acid.
    Kirk

    For up from the ashes, up from the ashes, grow the roses of success!

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