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  1. #11

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    Same for me, I have 5 Da Vinci brushes averaging 5 years of extensive using. Except one which the red paint on the handle blistered here and there - because I left it wet! They're almost in a like-new condition.

    The "secret" is:

    - Never leave the brushes with emulsion on the bristles, rinse immediately after coating!
    - Never leave the brushes wet, dry them (bristles, ferrule and handle) with a paper towel immediately after rinsing!
    - Never leave the brushes to dry bristles up, because some water remaining in the bristles may (or "will" if you like) emigrate to the ferrule and maybe to the hande, causing the ferrule retaining rivet to rust - as I experienced with my very first brush. (Can still use it for pt/pd, it's safe as long as you don't wet the rusty rivet...) Leave the brush in horizontal position or hang it from the handle (from the hole in the handle or using a clothes peg) instead, in order to let them dry completely.

    Working clean is the key here... (EDIT: I mean you don't really need to coat the ferrule with something - unless you really need the comfort of extra safety. I didn't coat the ferrule of mines with something.)

    Hope this helps,
    Loris.

    P.S. Moisten the brush with (distilled - depending on process) water before coating; you won't have too much emulsion sucked in the bristles that way - we need the emulsion on paper, not in the brush... And, hold the brush perpendicular to the paper while coating, just touch the paper with the tip of the brush; same reason as above...
    Last edited by Loris Medici; 10-31-2010 at 04:11 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added a note, then added P.S.

  2. #12
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    Some more picture with my 3" Richeson brush to get what I call an "Improved Richeson Magic Brush"
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Magic Richeson Hake Brush.JPG  

  3. #13
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    I love that idea payral. It seems to me it would be very difficult to do perfectly though. Also interesting to note that your brush had a natural wood handle. Is the "magic" brush different than what I just got?
    As to the clean working methods. Ok clearly my method causes my problem. I don't like coating with a brush full of water or washed and squeezed. I find it much better to coat with a brush that has sensitizer already in it.. In fact I start my printing sessions by first washing the brush.. even though I did wash it after the last printing session, and squeezing as much water out as possible and then putting 5 drops each of FO and Palladium mixed on a paper and soaking the end of my brush in it. Then I generally print whole days at a time and I only wash my brush if I am going to stop long enough for it to dry out. When I wash my brush I wash from the ferrule down (brush fibers only) with steaming hot water. I do it this way because it works best for me. My brushes last me generally about 4 years. The ones in my picture are at least that old. I realize that coating the outside of the ferrule does not stop the inside from corroding so it is probably a waste of time. The brushes in my picture still work fine as do the others in my cast off box. They are just ugly to look at. But from what I read here the corrosion clearly comes from the brush keeping sensitizer in it for hours on end. Even so that is worth it to me because I like the way it coats better than one just washed and squeezed. So I guess I look forward to the same thing happening to my new Richeson unless I get payral to re do it for me...
    Thanks
    Dennis

  4. #14
    payral's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpurdy View Post
    Also interesting to note that your brush had a natural wood handle. Is the "magic" brush different than what I just got?
    Dennis
    No it's the same but when I got them (more than ten years ago) I removed original paint and coat handles with some strong varnish. After that I used to paint metal part with Plasti-Dip and few months ago I changed original handle for a Japanese one.
    It's not very difficult to do.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by payral View Post
    No it's the same but when I got them (more than ten years ago) I removed original paint and coat handles with some strong varnish. After that I used to paint metal part with Plasti-Dip and few months ago I changed original handle for a Japanese one.
    It's not very difficult to do.
    When you take off the original ferrule, do you find the brush fibers are held together with glue or something? Or do you have some way of clamping them tight so they don't become miss arranged when out of the ferrule? Is it only the thread of the split hake brush that keeps the fibers aligned? I hate to ruin a good brush by experimenting.
    Dennis

  6. #16

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    Dennis, to me, improving the technique would be easier than trying to modify / manufacture brushes - but, then, each to their own...

    Regards,
    Loris.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpurdy View Post
    When you take off the original ferrule, do you find the brush fibers are held together with glue or something? Or do you have some way of clamping them tight so they don't become miss arranged when out of the ferrule? Is it only the thread of the split hake brush that keeps the fibers aligned? I hate to ruin a good brush by experimenting.
    Dennis
    Brush fibers are glued together. I didn't change anything to that. The thread is just to fix the "pack" to the handle.
    I modified two Richeson brushes, a 2" and a 3". Both were made the same way.

    Loris I didn't want to improve my technique, just improve my tools

  8. #18
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    Loris I am an old dog been printing platinum 25 years and I like how I do it. I have worked with a lot of methods and have come to what works best for me.
    Regards,
    Dennis.

  9. #19

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    As I said; each to their own...

    Philippe, that remark wasn't about you, BTW.


    Regards,
    Loris.

    P.S. Dennis, I just saw your Pbase pt/pd gallery -> my compliments, very nice work!
    Last edited by Loris Medici; 10-31-2010 at 03:33 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added P.S.

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