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  1. #21
    jp498's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BetterSense View Post
    So did you buy all 100 sheets for $63? Are you going to use them all, or would you be interested in selling some?
    CXSLFLQG for $170 is what I bought. It's more expensive because it's duplicating film not regular negative film. Still it's <$2 a sheet for 14x17 film, less than what most of would spend on 16x20 paper. I'd share (at pro rata cost), but I don't have extra packaging.

  2. #22
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    OK... Here's this weekend's testing. I picked a negative that is supposed to be kinda dark and forboding woods. A little weak some might say; delicate dusk gloom carefully captured in my mind. I think the fresh dektol came out a little too contrasty/dark, and the straight xtol might have either overdeveloped it or needs less time. The nicest mix seemed to be 3 minutes of xtol+dektol (spend some time in each developer) I haven't had a chance to contact print cyanotype/vandyke from these yet; I suspect other images would be better suited that medium. Next time, I'll add to the experimenting some worn out dektol and some diluted xtol.













    I'm pleased with the results of 1 hour and 1 sheet of film's testing!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbsc View Post
    I wonder what the base is made from, and whether it is dimensionaly stable enough to make a tricolor separation matrix.
    That's what I'd like to know as well. A direct positive could come in handy when making separations from various sources.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by jp498 View Post
    OK... Here's this weekend's testing. I picked a negative that is supposed to be kinda dark and forboding woods. A little weak some might say; delicate dusk gloom carefully captured in my mind. I think the fresh dektol came out a little too contrasty/dark, and the straight xtol might have either overdeveloped it or needs less time. The nicest mix seemed to be 3 minutes of xtol+dektol (spend some time in each developer) I haven't had a chance to contact print cyanotype/vandyke from these yet; I suspect other images would be better suited that medium. Next time, I'll add to the experimenting some worn out dektol and some diluted xtol.

    I'm pleased with the results of 1 hour and 1 sheet of film's testing!
    Thanks for posting these. Very interesting. Have you tried doing any alt through the film? I would be curious as to what sort of exposure is required. The blue base looks like it might add a lot of exposure.

    To my eye, the xtol-dektol does not look quite contrasty enough for VBD. The straight dektol looks good and beefy.

    I'll be interested in seeing your test prints.

  5. #25

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    the reason I use diluted HC-110 is because it is totally consistant...if you want results that are repeatable then find a developer that is going to do this for you...another one I could recommend is Iford PQ
    builds density like a bitch but is a liquid and can go bad if not used up
    the HC-110 will give the results you need and do it over and over once you figure out what works for you
    seems rather simple to me...why try to add variables??
    Best, Peter
    website down for maintenance!

  6. #26
    jp498's Avatar
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    Peter, thanks for the suggestions of hc110, but I've been experimenting with what I've got on hand for chemicals, so hc110 would be an added variable. I'll keep the post in mind if I order chemicals in the near future, but I don't order chemicals that often.

  7. #27
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    hc110 is on order. I can't resist more variables. It's going to be a couple weeks since I'm getting behind in silver printing and I've got figure it's 10 days for shipping from freestyle.

  8. #28
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    How's the X-ray film going these days?
    If you are the big tree, we are the small axe

  9. #29
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    I've made some negatives developed in dektol with it. I made some 8" negatives from 6x6cm originals for vandyke printing. Worked fine. I've got some more xray dupe negatives waiting for me to coat more paper for cyanotype and van dyke. the duplicating film is safelight safe, so it's easy to work with. One side is lighter than the other for determining the emulsion side.

  10. #30
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    That's great. I'm thinking about using it for enlarged negatives under the enlarger. Any idea if its scale is good for carbon?

    I'm hoping to get a sampling from CXS soon; and man it's cheap!
    If you are the big tree, we are the small axe

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