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  1. #1
    jaimeb82's Avatar
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    Exposing a Carbon Tissue question

    I have the tissue sensitize and a 4x5 negative. Can someone tell me if the black part of the tissue is supposed to touch the emulsion side of the neg? How do I make this sandwich and how do I put the sandwich on a UV light? My rational tells me tissue down black part facing up, and negative emulsion down on top of the tissue and from there to the UV light in that position, like on Pt/Pl?

    Thanks if someone can send some direction my way.

    Jaime.
    "Art is a lie that enables us to tell the truth" -Picasso
    http://www.jaimebermudez.com

  2. #2

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    Jaime,

    Yes, mate the negative onto the black side of the tissue. If you are doing single transfer, then if you mate the emulsion side to the tissue, the image will come out reversed on the final support. I only worry if there is lettering in the image that would reverse; in that case I mate the black side of the tissue to the non-emulsion side of the negative, although it does cause a slight loss of sharpness.

    A wise precaution is to place the tissue black side up, then put a thin piece of plastic film (I use cling-film for wrapping sandwiches) and then place the negative. I find that just occasionally I may get a little bit of tissue that was not fully dry and if place directly on the negative, it may stick and cause significant swearing.

    Put the stack of tissue and film into a contact frame to squash it all together and then expose to UV light. I used an old picture frame for a while - one of the cheap board/glass 'clip frames', but made a decent wood contact frame eventually to save on plasters for the cuts on my hands.

    Best regards,

    Evan

  3. #3
    jaimeb82's Avatar
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    Hi Evan, thanks for explaining, I have a NUARC unit that I have never used before and the vacum doesn't seem to work. The light is in working condition. So I ended up finding glass around the house and clipping them together with 4 clips and putting that on the NUARC unit. It did the work and yes, I printed a 6x7 negative of Coney Island and it came out reverse. It was my first try at carbon, do you do Carbon back there in the old country?

    Best,

    Jaime.
    "Art is a lie that enables us to tell the truth" -Picasso
    http://www.jaimebermudez.com

  4. #4
    Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Hi Jaime,
    The black part of the tissue is actually called "the tissue". This area must be in contact with the negative. Sometimes I place the negative on the tissue with its emulsion side facing away from the tissue if there is text in the image, otherwise it will transfer backwards (for single transfer work). Placing the emulsion against the tissue runs the risk of damage (tissue can stick if you expose too long with halogen system, etc, or tissue hasn't dried after sensitizing). If you are concerned about damaging a negative, a thin piece of mylar between neg and tissue will prevent them from sticking.
    If you are into carbon transfer printing, check out the bostick & sullivan forum:
    http://bostick-sullivan.invisionzone...rum/68-carbon/
    as well as Sandy King's carbon group on yahoo: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/C...sfer/message/1
    Many carbon printers hang out there, including myself.

  5. #5
    Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
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    Jaime, all sound advice that you have received. Always put some Mylar or other type of clear plastic between the tissue and the negative. The NuArc develops quite a bit of heat and can suck out any left over moisture in the tissue and possibly damage your negative. This can and will happen with very long exposures. The glass on the Nuarc is heavy and should not cause you problems holding the sandwich down with 4x5 images without the vacuum.

  6. #6

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    If the sensitized tissue is at all damp, it will bleach the silver in a negative in contact with it. There is also the possible problem of getting flakes from the tissue adhered to the negative. Most people use inkjet negatives, so this is only a minor problem. Dick Sullivan suggests putting a silver negative into a 1 mil transparent sleeve for making a carbon print exposure. I've done it, and it works without significant loss of sharpness.

  7. #7
    jaimeb82's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the advice and recomedations, I got my first image!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails first-carbon-b.jpg  
    "Art is a lie that enables us to tell the truth" -Picasso
    http://www.jaimebermudez.com

  8. #8
    ghostcount's Avatar
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    Very cool! Edge frilling = genuine carbon print. Makes it one of a kind.
    “I drank what?” - Socrates

  9. #9
    Hexavalent's Avatar
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    Congratulations Jaime! Nice print.

    My first carbon looked wonderful, just before it slid off the paper and went down the drain
    - Ian

  10. #10
    Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
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    Ian, sorry to hear that. What type of tissue did you use? I find that if you make your own thick tissue it can eliminate this. Well, there are many other things that can cause the image to slide away. I've never had one do that yet!

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