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  1. #1

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    ? About Hand Coated Prints

    Many here coat their own paper and was wondering how do you 'mask' for a better description the paper when you print? Or in a simpler way, how the heck do you get a nice clean border without the overbursh?

    There are times I like it and other times wish it wasn't there. Seems like I have read where some us rubylith on the glass of the contact printer but could you use black construction paper to make a template? Could you use a template over the paper while you coat it..

    Just curious.

    Thanks,
    Mike C

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  2. #2
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    I use image setter masking sheets for a Heidelberg GTO 52. They are opaque to UV and have a convenient grid marked on them. After cutting one a few inches bigger than the negative, I lay it over the neg on a light table and mark the grid. Then just cut with a razor knife and tape the neg corners with rubylith. Also cool about masking negs is that it leave a place to write notes for each neg.


    One more cool thing about masking is that every print is a test of the clearing process.

  3. #3

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    I use rubylith or sometimes orange masking paper used by the printing industry. You tape the negative to the mask. Another approach that works for me is to use tape designed for painting ( the purple stuff from Lowe's Home Improvement Stores). Before I coat the paper I outline the area with the tape, coat the paper then remove tape before drying the paper. Leaves a nice clean edge on smooth papers but rough papers not as good.
    Using rubylith or orange masking is a good way to keep a check on your clearing, if any sign of yellow you are not clearing your paper good enough.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by photomc
    Many here coat their own paper and was wondering how do you 'mask' for a better description the paper when you print? Or in a simpler way, how the heck do you get a nice clean border without the overbursh?

    There are times I like it and other times wish it wasn't there. Seems like I have read where some us rubylith on the glass of the contact printer but could you use black construction paper to make a template? Could you use a template over the paper while you coat it..

    Just curious.

    Thanks,


    There are many ways to do this. Most commonly I mask the negative with lithographers tape, and then use the masked negative to determine the area of the paper that is to be coated. Then I mask the area of the paper that is to be coated with paper with a quick release masking paper, and then coat. To expose, position the negative over the paper in such a way that except for the area that is to be exposed all of the rest of the coated area is masked.

    Sandy

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    There are times I like it and other times wish it wasn't there. Seems like I have read where some us rubylith on the glass of the contact printer but could you use black construction paper to make a template?
    I've used rubylith before with great success... You could use anything that will block all the light from hitting your coating.


    Could you use a template over the paper while you coat it..
    I would think that that would be the hard way to go about it, but I guess in theory it would work great.

    My vote is for the rubylith or anything opaque (and thin) that will keep the contact print in contact.

    Good luck!

    joe

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    You don't always have to use a brush to hand coat a paper. I tried the brush and shortly after starting switched to a glass rod. It keeps the "over coating" down but you still need to go beyond the edges of the negative to be sure it is evenly coated. Somebody was selling them, I don't remember. But I had a friend who worked with glass, so she made me some. I made them in diferent lengths for each of the format sizes I was printing at them time.

    Have you thought about masking your negatives in a ruby lith over something to block the light from hitting the paper? I experimented with it once, but didn't like the look. So, I never repeated the experiment.
    George Losse
    www.georgelosse.com

  7. #7

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    Somebody was selling them, I don't remember.
    Bostick & Sullivan - "The Puddle Pusher"


    joe

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    Now, I'm impressed - these are really good and varied responses. Mateo, where did you pick up the image setter masking sheets? In general, should I be able to find ruby lith at any art supply store?

    Really like the sound of the image setter masking sheets, since it sounds like a good way to store the negative and keep all data together.

    Thanks,
    Mike C

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  9. #9

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    Actually have one of the puddle pushers from B&S, but find I get as good coverage from a foam brush as I do with it (now that may be because I'm not doing it right or the volume of solution is too high).
    Mike C

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  10. #10

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    Mike,

    I used to use rubylith and sometimes goldenrod, but I found that sometimes the edges would still get a little sensitized, and so it would not completely clear afterward. (I often am using very little restrainer).

    I started masking the paper with Scotch (3M) 2070 Safe Release tape, and never have that problem anymore. I have a piece of mat board cut to the size I typically use for my prints. I lay it on the paper with some weight, and then run the tape around the four sides. Pull off the mat board, and use a boning tool to get solid contact between the paper and the tape, and coat away.

    When the coating is dry, pull off the tape, and you are ready to go.

    I still occasionally use rubylith, but since I started using the tape, I rarely use any other method.


    ---Michael
    www.mutmansky.com
    B&W photography in Silver, Palladium, and gum bichromate.

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