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  1. #11
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    I think that if I were doing this, I would use the polyester resin intended to be used with glass fibre. Possibly with some glass mat in the corners for added strength.

    Quote Originally Posted by dpurdy View Post
    I just went to the local plastics store and got epoxy with the fiber glass.
    You ushould use polyester resin with fibre glass and epoxy with carbon fibre.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  2. #12

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    I built plywood sinks about 20 years ago.

    I took some bad advise and used marine yacht varnish. It isn't very chemical proof and isn't really all that soak proof, either.

    One of the requirements of marine products is that the deck of a boat can be baked by high intensity sunlight for very long periods of time. Part of the spec must therefore be good UV resistance. I think this may be what you pay the extra $$$ for in a special yacht or marine finish - and obviously it is necessary in a darkroom!

    I wish I'd tried an epoxy or polyester resin.
    Steve

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trond View Post
    I used epoxy paint intended for garage floors. The cheapest I could find. Seems to have done the trick.

    Trond

    Thanks for all the suggestions.

    Trond,
    I'm interested in this idea because I can get this much cheaper at Lowes or Home Depot, the Sherwin Williams product is about $200, over $100 for a gallon of the Part A component and almost $100 for the Part B component. I believe in my heart of hearts that the functionality that is required of this sink should not incur such an expense. I'm curious as to how long has your sink been coated with that type of epoxy paint and how frequently is the sink used? How many initial coats did you apply?


    Thanks
    Last edited by CPorter; 01-20-2012 at 08:07 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14

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    I coated my plywood sink and counter tops with marine polyester with medium gray pigment added thirty-five years ago and it is still going strong. I put fiberglass cloth strips imbeded in the polyester where the pieces of plywood met. It also helped to form rounded interior corners. You could also use molding for that (I thought of that but after I had already finished). As I recall I did two or three coats.

    [Uhttp://www.jeffreyglasser.com/[/U]

  5. #15
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffreyg View Post
    I thought of that but after I had already finished

    I also have a lot of good ideas when it's too late!


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  6. #16
    Trond's Avatar
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    The product I used cost about $75 for both components, 3,6 liters in total and I used 4 coats. I finished building the sink less than a year ago, and I use the sink about once a week. Looks good so far and the coating seems very tough. To early to tell when it comes to long term durability of course, but I can certainly recommend this product (or similar).

    Trond
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Våtside.jpg  

  7. #17
    fotch's Avatar
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    I used epoxy and used fiberglass in where ever the plywood would be attached to another section, suce as bottom to sides. Otherwise, epoxy by itself could crack. Sink is 30 years old and still in use. JMHO
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  8. #18

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    I've done two darkroom sinks out of plywood, as far as I know, both are still working leak free. On one I used fiberglass and west system epoxy - I probably didn't need the fiberglass, but I did it anyway.

    The second I painted with an epoxy paint, and then took to a place where they do spray on pickup truck bed liners - and they sprayed that stuff on. It was nice because it has a rubbery finish which kept things from slipping in the sink.

    In both cases it was probably overkill, but I'd rather have overkill than have to go back to redo it.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trond View Post
    The product I used cost about $75 for both components, 3,6 liters in total and I used 4 coats. I finished building the sink less than a year ago, and I use the sink about once a week. Looks good so far and the coating seems very tough. To early to tell when it comes to long term durability of course, but I can certainly recommend this product (or similar).

    Trond
    Thanks for the picture----did you prime the surface of the plywood first? If so, latex primer, oil-based?

  10. #20
    Wade D's Avatar
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    Epoxy floor paint works very well. I've built 2 sinks over the years. Both were made of 2 x 12 pine instead of plywood. Both were securely glued and screwed together then a hardening caulk was used for all joints. The 1st sink (2' x 6') was too small and was left behind many years ago. The 2nd sink (30" x 92") is still in use. After 4 moves and 26 years it still looks good and is water tight. A good coat of floor paint was also put on the outside of the sink and on the stand.

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