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  1. #11
    glbeas's Avatar
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    Theres also the option of a low volume airbrush pump if space is a problem. I'd assume an inline filter would be feasible on this as well.
    Gary Beasley

  2. #12
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    I had a look at the air cans, they all seem to pump out some pretty harsh stuff.. big labels on the cans "DO NOT INHALE" etc. I guess I could use it near my exhaust fan if it's that noxious.

  3. #13
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    I have a 6HP, 60 gallon compressor in my garage, but I use canned air and static brushes on negatives!
    Bob Fowler
    fowler@verizon.net
    Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

  4. #14

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    Hmmm...

    Clean dry compressed air.... where would I look for something like that... hmmm.....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 0218.jpg  
    Imitation cameras come with big egos, real cameras do not include accessories.

  5. #15

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    FWIW, Ansel Adams recommended using a small horse hair brush to clean off negatives. His objection to compressed air was that it blew the dirt around which could scratch the negatives.

  6. #16
    lee
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    sean said, "labels on the cans "DO NOT INHALE" etc."

    I think that they meant don't place the nozzle toward the mouth and squeeze. I would not worry about it too much in general use

    lee\c

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD Morgan
    Hmmm...

    Clean dry compressed air.... where would I look for something like that... hmmm.....
    Bwahh! Nice pic. For some reason, I thought he was a septic tank cleaner

  8. #18
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    Hrm..... now that's something I hadn't thought of before. Of course, I'm pretty sure you need to be a certified open water diver to get a tank charged -- I think I've had to show my dive card when doing that if the shop didn't already know me.

    Any of the SCUBA types on apug got idea on how you'd connect the valve on the tank to a hose with a standard compresser "squeeze and squirt" handle? It'd be nice not to have to buy an entire regulator rig just to do this, although maybe one could be found on eBay that has just the valve and the low-pressure part that attaches to the boyancy control vest.

    -KwM-

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by kwmullet
    Hrm..... now that's something I hadn't thought of before. Of course, I'm pretty sure you need to be a certified open water diver to get a tank charged -- I think I've had to show my dive card when doing that if the shop didn't already know me.

    Any of the SCUBA types on apug got idea on how you'd connect the valve on the tank to a hose with a standard compresser "squeeze and squirt" handle? It'd be nice not to have to buy an entire regulator rig just to do this, although maybe one could be found on eBay that has just the valve and the low-pressure part that attaches to the boyancy control vest.

    -KwM-
    A dive shop will have a hose that will attach to the first stage and be compatible with a female O2 fitting (have a couple because we sometimes used a SCUBA bottle pig-tailed to the air manifold as a third back-up rather than haul the big 161 out on long structures or small boats). Use a male O2 to 1/4 NPT bushing at the hose end. The 1/4NPT will fit your air nozzle, standard pneumatic quick connects for various tools etc., tire inflator for your flats on the trail or when you go tubin' with all the pretty girls. That way you won't get all silly lookin' and dizzy tryin' to blow tractor tubes up with your face.

    You can also go to your local welding supply and lease various sized 'breathing air' cylinders and use an air or O2 gas weld/cut type regulator and hose.

    If you have this stuff in a 'maintained climate' you won't have to worry about condensation forming in the hose (almost killed me one day), but be sure to blow it out anyway -- spiders and such find their way into things. Splat a spidey on your neg and ya might end up with an instant macro - life size.
    Last edited by JD Morgan; 12-21-2004 at 01:01 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: correction
    Imitation cameras come with big egos, real cameras do not include accessories.

  10. #20

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    BTW, the first stage reduction on LP is usually between 90-125 PSI. You can cut an old regulator or drysuit hose and attach what you want with hose clamps etc. The older first stages (like 30 - 40 years old) were eassily adjustable for LP pressure, not certain about the newer. But you can make a small manifold incorporating a small pressure regulator to run the bottle to and then hose off of that for whatever you want. Ya don't need 125 psi for negs, that would just waste air.

    There also used to be brass fitting available that fit an LP port on the first stage with a male O2 on the opposing side. You can then adapt O2 to 1/4NPT or use an old O2 hose from a weld/cut rig (green one, red is acetylene with a left hand thread) and then adapt O2 to 1/4NPT at the end of that or ..... endless possibilities.....

    Commercial divers have all that crap in their junk boxes, go visit one. Approach confidently with a smile and a roll of good duct tape as a peace offering offering, sea dogs can smell fear too -- but they luv duct tape.

    And don't forget about 'Hookah' rigs. Many compressors now are oil-less on the comressor head side. In the old rigs we had to use special oils because of CO if the rings leaked. Been there too.
    Imitation cameras come with big egos, real cameras do not include accessories.

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