FujiMoto CP31 Developer's leaking into Fix Tank

[EdSawyer]

aren't there some cutoff valves that keep the drains from allowing fluid out them (the front 3 drain hoses) while the processor is running? I seem to think so. Maybe one of those valves is bad, and allowing bath 1 to drain into bath 2 somehow through the piping/valves that control those front 3 drain hoses?

GOod luck, let us know how it works out

-Ed

[Mike Wilde]

No, the drain hoses, at least on my 31, are totally independent. The only 'valve' is the stopper in the end of the hose.

[mmmdarkroom]

So I just wanted to clarify the diagnosis and throw out a few more questions. Thank you all so much for your feedback!

I've drained the processor of chemicals and cleaned it thoroughly. When I go to fill it with water, by placing the funnel in the drain hole of tank 1 (with the drain tube capped) the water flows back through the agitator tubes like it's supposed to, but a small amount of water also bubbles up from the drain hole of tank 2.

If I continue and fill each tank completely and then run the processor, with the lid off and the rollers out, I can actually see the water level in tank drop as it rises in tank 2, until it either overflows or I just turn the processor off. The water seems to be entering tank 2 via the pump system or some other internal problem because it's not flowing over the top or sides of tank 1. I'm really stumped because everything I know about the processor seems to suggest that whats happen isn't really possible, and a great deal of the feedback I've received echos that; however, it is happening.

I'm in Asheville, North Carolina, can anyone recommend an repair technician within a days drive or so?

I've also thought about contacting a local small parts mechanic, like a dishwasher repair person, etc. Does that seem reasonable at all? My thinking is that, since it's not an incredibly complex mechanical device an unrelated mechanic might be able to resolve the issue with just a little tinkering, though I'm also concerned that this option could lead to huge bill and a more thoroughly broken machine.

Any advice that you may have is greatly appreciated! As I said we're a public darkroom, we're actually in the process of establishing 501c(3) status, and the processor went kaput the first week we opened to the public, so we're desperately anxious to get her back on her feet!

Thanks Again!

[Mike Wilde]

The only thing I can think of, and this is a way out there sort of guess, is that something might have somehow gotten hot or soft under the hood, and one hose has fused with another hose, with a pinhole leak somehow linking the two hoses.

I know the rubber in two tank in mine over the years has swelled, in reaction to chemical action ( likely after I moved dev into two where it had sat in blix for years - tank 1 thermostat issue drove that swap), and I had to take the bottom off to shorten the hose from pump to heater. The swelling caused the short pipe section to kink as it grew longer.

The thing is not mind blowing to diagnose once you remove the top and racks, flip it over, mop up the residual fluids, and take about 6 screws out from underneath.

Yes a dishwasher is an apt analogy. There is a power cord to the vent fan to disconnect, and then reconnect so the wire does not rub against the fan. Ask me how I learned that detail after I had refilled the machine.

The thing to remember on the electrical side is that at it's heart it is a japanese 100Vac machine, that runs it's pumps and processor control circuits from an auto-transformer (maybe a full tx, I am a little fuzzy on that precise detail) to take NA 120Vac in and step it down to 100Vac. Only the heaters run at 120V.

Happy troubleshooting. It will make you stronger in the long run with this machine.

The next thing to likely crap out are the control board electrolytic capacitors. Not a huge effort to swap, but necessary on many older pieces of gear.

[George Nova Scotia]

Sounds like it's time to flip it over and take the bottom off. It's not too hard to do.
1) drain and remove all the racks
2) disconnect the circuit board connections - the connectors are all different
3) flip it over and remove the screws holding the bottom on
4) lift the bottom up from the front - the fan in the back will still be connected I think it has a connector as well but you can just tip the bottom to expose all the plumbing.

I can post some pictures tomorrow if that would help. I also have the parts and service manual if the would help. They don't really contain much info beyond the obvious.

If you don't feel up to it maybe your idea about a dishwasher repair guy might work. Maybe check local collages to see if they have any ideas. They might have had one in a darkroom once upon a time.

--- look like Mike beat me to the post

[frotog]

There's a good repair guy just south of Philly. He knows these machines very well. But considering that it's a plumbing problem, taking the lid off the 31 and inspecting the hoses is the next obvious step.

[George Nova Scotia]

CP31 pictures - not too scary?

Inside the bottom - tank pumps on the left (green)




Full view - note the stain on the bottom - the overflow hose from the gear channel was stuck inside the case for a while.


Pumps