Will this work with the iPod Touch? It would be nice to avoid the phone calls as well!
+ 1 on the convential timer interface, no interest at all in trading my f/stop timer for the phone.
Another nice feature would be the ability to control the blue and green LED independantly for splitting.
I'd like to express my interest in a replacement for my well-loved Ilford 500H, which I use on a De Vere 504. I hope to get more out of the 500H, but I fear the day when it gives up on me might be sooner than later, and it would be great to have a replacement. I do not want to replace the De Vere 504, amazing build.
Ideally, I would prefer not to control the new head via an iDevice (which I own several of) but either a traditional timer, or a dedicated unit, letting me control grades in 0.1 increments. It would not need to be a StopClock style timer, just simple time and grade, focus, expose, burn, and a foot switch.
Originally Posted by jon.oman
Yes, it works with the latest iPod Touch, the iPad with Retina display, and the new iPad mini. If you do use an iPhone, as I do, the phone may be placed in "airplane mode" which turns off the cell phone features but preserves WiFi and Bluetooth. Just be sure to turn the Bluetooth back on after switching into airplane mode as it is turned off by default.
The 1.0 version of the software is available on the app store but will be replaced with the 1.1 update within a few days. The 1.0 version was for demonstration only. The updated version of the app has been submitted and I am just waiting for Apple to review it. Version 1.1 has a more fully paper-safe interface and accommodates user preferences for sound, tenth-second timing, and tenth-unit contrast control.
A host of features are planned as I develop my iOS coding skills. When control is in software rather than hardware, the limit of what is possible is only one's imagination.
Really impressive....your other heads on your website also look very nice.....saving my pennies
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A few things I would want, some bottom line, some pie in the sky...
1. Fitment for the 45MX.
2. Other timer / controller options, maybe pair up with Richard at RH Designs on this.
3. This is the pie in the sky one, ability to localize both contrast grade and exposure to specific parts of the neg as if to burn and dodge by controlling specific LED sets. Think Ansel Adam's not much talked about multi-bulb, rheostat controlled light source. Obviously this would become easier to achieve as the neg size increased to a larger format.
4. This one is *super* pie in the sky and might be considered photoshop. Use either a flatbed scanner, iPhone camera or some other device to analyze neg density by essentially taking a photo or scan of it. Then using an iPad, make local and specific burn and dodge adjustments by touching your finger to the screen. Once the desired range is obtained, make the exposure complete with any burning, dodging and localized grade adjustments in one pass.
For now I will take number one, I think Richard should tackle the second one if no one else does, I would buy that set in a heartbeat...
Last edited by PKM-25; 12-08-2012 at 10:16 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Here are the comparisons. Sorry it took so long.
Originally Posted by Bob Carnie
The first print is with the Omega condenser head with a 150W incandescent bulb and an Ilford No. 2 filter. The second print is with a prototype Model 3 lamp head set at grade 2. Both prints were made at f11 for 10 seconds on 8x10 Ilford MGIV RC paper and developed in Dektol 1:2 for 2 min then fixed in Kodafix for 2 minutes.
The results show the Model 3 is about twice as bright as the 150W bulb when using a No. 2 VC filter. When using Nos. 4 and 5 filters, the Model 3 is four times as bright (not shown here). On graded paper, the Model 3 would be expected to be about equal in brightness. However, it is possible to safely double the brightness of the Model 3 at contrast grade 2.5 for graded paper printing. This can be an option in the software.
The Model 3 achieves this brightness while consuming only about 30W of power and transmitting essentially no heat to the negative.
All test prints for the Model 3 will be posted soon to my website.
Question: It would not be difficult to provide an option for f-stop timing in the control software. Is this something that would be desirable?
I'm in the process right now of making enlargements from overexposed and overdeveloped 50+ year old 35mm negatives. This level of intensity would be a huge help. I'm struggling somewhat with lengthy exposure times for full-frame magnifications on 8x10. These negatives are opaque. I've had to go back to a high-intensity single-tube V54 head and use Ilford under-the-lens filtration for the worst offenders.
Do you have any data regarding effective intensity levels for the low contrast end? Grades 0 and 1? As we've already discussed, there seems to be about a 10x natural exposure time spread between the highest and lowest contrast levels. And my overdeveloped negatives are also very high in contrast, thus requiring those lower filtration levels.
Also as we've discussed, my preference would be for a unit that can be integrated directly into my existing enlarging set-up and workflow. I would prefer to continue using the Zone VI Timer that I've already invested in and grown accustomed to over the years.
The thing about f/stop printers is that I might imagine the bulk of those interested in that approach have probably also already invested in (rather expensive) timing units, and evolved their own workflows around those. My guess is that they may not want to give those up either.
Last edited by Ken Nadvornick; 12-12-2012 at 11:11 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: Slight expansion...
"Hate is an adolescent term used to stop discussion with people you disagree with. You can do better than that."
—'blanksy', December 13, 2013
Pretty much, same with how my 45MXT is setup too, but it's nice to see it taken seriously, maybe one day for us Beseler users...
Originally Posted by Ken Nadvornick
I've been watching this thread, but may have missed the answer to this, sorry if I have -
I use an Aristo V54 single bulb unit with a filter drawer above the neg stage, and an Aristo dimmer device in line, which is a great help making small prints at reasonable exposure times, keeping the f/stop at optimum. Can this new light source be used with a dimmer, and must it be a specific one? The question arises after seeing the comparative exposures to the 150w bulb.