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  1. #1

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    Durst M601 CLS 66 Lamp Intensity

    I tested a new to me Durst 601 CLS. The lamp intensity is 3 stops or more dimmer than my LPL 670 dichro.

    The lamp has a 1 sec delay when activated through a timer. The lamp has a slow start when turning on; you can see light intensity build over the sec it takes to fully turn on lamp.

    The Durst lamp is 12 volts, 100 watts, the recommended values. The domestic manufactured voltage stabilizer is 117v, 60 HZ, 1.3 A max.

    The lamp is in the proper position in the head. What is wrong?
    Last edited by Richard Jepsen; 01-01-2013 at 09:20 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    RJ

  2. #2
    PDH
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    I wonder if the lamp is fading due to age and needs to be replaced. Do you have the 6X6 light mixing box or the 35mm? If you have the 35mm it will be darker and will not cover 6X6. Although a long shot has anyone added an addtional layer of material for diffusion? My color head come to full intensity almost immediately and is in the same ball park as the condenser head in in terms of brightness with the 6X6 box and condenser set.

  3. #3

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    I have both mixing boxes. My test was with the 35mm box. The carrier is for 35mm slides. The previous owner mentioned buying a new lamp even though he used the enlarger for less than 50 hours. The lamp is not one of the named brands in the booklet but the specs match recommendation. Interesting my lamp is not instant on and yours is.
    RJ

  4. #4

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    Richard, based on what you have indicated, I would suspect the voltage regulator is defective. A voltage regulator is designed to maintain a constant voltage through circuitry that smooths out variations in line (AC) voltage so lamp color doesn't shift during exposure. If you can physically see the lamp intensity changing on 'turn on,' I would suspect the regulator is not functioning properly. Check the output of the regulator with a voltmeter to see that the ouput is, I would guess 12 volts. It should instantly (within a few milliseconds) reach proper voltage and maintain that without varying. From what you are saying I would expect that the voltmeter would see something like 10 or so volts finally stabilizing at 12 volts.

    Sure sounds to me like the regulator is bad. I have a voltage regulator on a Vivitar VI and will try and get some possible data today.

    Edit: I just checked the Vivitar and mine is voltage stabilizer. It puts out 19.8 VAC to the lamphead. I was thinking an AC to DC voltage regulator in the previous discussion.

    Is the stabilizer a Durst 'matched' unit (EST 305 (N)) or is it an aftermarket generic unit?
    Last edited by Fred Aspen; 01-02-2013 at 10:26 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    -Fred

  5. #5
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Sounds like the voltage stabiliser, but check the contacts in the lamp holder. I have had issues with my De Vere where the contacts get a film of oxidation. It's an old enlarger I bought mine in 1975, so check the holder it's like having a resistor inline when the contacts aren't clean.

    Is it the Durst stabiliser, these are designed to give a fast response but I have other 12v power sources for similar bulbs and they are slower.

    Ian

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    Good point, Ian, any series resistance would also demonstrate similar symptoms.
    -Fred

  7. #7

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    I visited our local electric fixture store and determined the lamp was bad. The booklet identifies several recommended lamps rated at 12v and 100w. There are different values for the US and Canada. The booklet identified one bulb rated at 30v 80w for the USA. I bought an available 24v 50w lamp, UV glass covered. Tested in the store it was blinding brilliant. The light can be slightly under rated as I work in B&W. I typically dial in magenta to change contrast without using yellow or neutral density.

    The voltage stabilizer is a domestic brand seen with other M601 CLS 66 sold on online.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg   image.jpg  
    Last edited by Richard Jepsen; 01-02-2013 at 04:15 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    RJ

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Jepsen View Post
    I visited our local electric fixture store and determined the lamp was bad. The booklet identifies several recommended lamps rated at 12v and 100w. There are different values for the US and Canada. The booklet identified one bulb rated at 30v 80w for the USA. I bought an available 24v 50w lamp, UV glass covered. Tested in the store it was blinding brilliant. The light can be slightly under rated as I work in B&W. I typically dial in magenta to change contrast without using yellow or neutral density.

    The voltage stabilizer is a domestic brand seen with other M601 CLS 66 sold on online.
    A forum member helped with parts allowing me to print. I discovered the light intensity too dim to use color filtration. The correct mix box is installed with a 30v 50w lamp. The power supply is pictured in the previous post. 1. Is the CLS color head naturally dim?
    Last edited by Richard Jepsen; 01-18-2013 at 01:52 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    RJ

  9. #9

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    Richard I have a 605 which may be quite different but I have a 75W bulb. I got this because ironically I was getting too short an exposure time for colour prints with 100W which is what Durst recommends for the 605. Certainly with dichroic head filtration a 100W wasn't too powerful for B&W printing. I am no electrical expert and we have 240V here in the U.K. but I am sure I'd struggle with 50W. This seems too low a wattage assuming my 605 is comparable with your 601

    pentaxuser

  10. #10
    PDH
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    Hi Richard, if you have a mulitmeter you can check to see the voltage, should be 120V at the bulb base. It's too bad I already put my unit in the recycle bin which was picked up so I cant pull the power supply.

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