Can you bore it out to 50mm or are you stuck at 39?
Originally Posted by RidingWaves
If enlargers had half the adjustments of my lowly 45N-2 I would have never even started this thread..
Originally Posted by Michael R 1974
What annoys me about MY enlarger (D2 and DII) is that I spend time aligning it just right, then move the caridge up and down, and measure again, it's OFF AGAIN! Extend the bellows and collapse, repeat, and measure, it's OFF AGAIN. Remove the neg carrier out and put it in again.... you guessed it, it's OFF AGAIN!
My prints are much better than before the alignment but it keeping PRECISE alignment, it's not possible.
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
What we need is to form a consortium centered on creating the Sinar of large format enlargers.
My real name is Patrick, not Joe. Long Story.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I am surprised no one has mentioned DeVere enlargers.
They have very precise and intuitively obvious adjustments for the negative , Lens Stage and Baseboard.
The only thing missing is a Helical Focus capability a la Focomat,
I was very disappointed with the Omega B22 and B66 as it had no lens stage adjustment what so ever.
Emerson in Kanata Ontario
Omega D5 Enlarger Alignment
Originally Posted by Mike Bates
I have an Omega D5XL. It's wall-mounted and cross-braced with a set of DIY custom heavy-duty threaded rods and individually adjustable turnbuckles. Using these turnbuckles I can control front-to-back tilt of the overall unit and rotation around the vertical axis at the base mounting plate to a coarse degree. But for fine adjustments you must use the controls mentioned by Mike.
I ran across this Omega D5 alignment page on the Zig-Align website that might be worth posting for future APUG search references.
It describes a brief procedure for aligning the lens stage of this enlarger using both the eccentric rods and set screws (front-to-back tilt) and the adjustable brake track (side-to-side position). First the lens stage is adjusted. Then the negative stage is independently adjusted using its side-mount bolts. A diagram is included.
According to the above guide, alignment of an Omega D2 "is not the same in detail, but it is similar in general."
Last edited by Ken Nadvornick; 01-16-2013 at 01:21 AM. Click to view previous post history.
"Some photographers are the poets of purple mountains' majesty. Some are the poets of the placid suburbs. Weegee is the poet of small-timers who died face down on a city pavement at 3 a.m. in a pool of their own blood."
— Richard Lacayo, Photography: Dames! Stiffs! Mugs!, Time Magazine, January 12, 1998
I'm glad this thread has some sensibility going on in it and some legs to boot. I just think that enlargers, being not more than heavy duty heat resistant view cameras pointed downward have room for improvement. Until I get a proper darkroom space, I have to make do with my "Volkswagen" 45MX and my Versalab and maybe some home made tricks.
I think lightweight LED VC light sources can open up a lot of new possibilities in designing slick hybrid enlargers from the ground up. I look forward to messing with it when I have the room and cash...
If you were to design an mulit-format enlarger for black and white multigrade printing from the ground up and had a decent budget, what would you do?
Well I'd probably use the already existing Bessler 45 series neg holders, lots of them around and they work well and can be modified. I like the Bes-align idea of three screws to align things, I'd make the neg stage and lens stage have it so I could dial in both those relative to the paper stage.
Interesting question. I've often wished I was a machinist with access to all that CNC and crazy water table stuff. Man, I'd build exactly the perfect view camera and enlarger for me, and it would be so precise it would be ridiculous. The tolerances would be incredibly small, with scales as precise as possible. Of course that's all just dreaming - although I've pretty much built/modified all my negative carriers so that they work exactly how I want.
More realistically I think in the end there are only a few things I'd fix on my Saunders 4550 (VCCE head):
1. I'd redesign the lens stage (ie focusing) to be more rigid and precise. I never liked lens stages supported by those two rods on one side. Mine hasn't gone out of alignment, but it just seems wrong for that kind of money and I feel like if I had a particularly heavy lens it might go out of alignment.
2. Swing/tilt on the lens stage. Of course this would have to have extremely precise scales for zeroing it. It's a feature I'd probably only use very rarely, but nice to have.
Other than that I'm pretty much fine with my enlarger. I check alignment from time to time and it is still bang on (luckily). As for light sources, I guess LEDs and fancy metering/exposure/timing devices etc are kind of cool but they wouldn't add any value to me.
Designing a view camera from the ground up, that's another story.