Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,552   Posts: 1,544,919   Online: 886
      
Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 56
  1. #41
    fotch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SE WI- USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,129
    Easy to empty any size tray, no holes, pumps, just a simple system, I should patent it. Well, anyway, you can use any hose, I prefer clear plastic hose, say 1/2 inch size, about 30 inches long.

    Submerge the entire hose in the solution, get all the air out by holding down the middle of the hose and let the air escape through the ends. An alternate way is to put a funnel on one side, keep the other side submerged, then pour some of the solution into the hose to fill it, lowering the funnel size into the tray as you get near the top.

    Then, keeping the inlet side under the solution, take the other side, with your thumb on the hose to keep air/solution from getting in an out, and lower the hose down into a plastic bucket (the type with a pouring spout for later transfer into a bottle) and release the thumb so the solution then flows. It will siphon the tray solution into the bucket, as long as you keep the hose in the tray below the solution, so no air breaks the siphon.

    Hopefully, I describe this so it is understood. Works perfect and have used in when transferring fluids out of large trays.
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  2. #42

    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    The highest state
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,916
    Quote Originally Posted by eddie View Post
    While I don't recommend a new printer to start with large prints, it only makes sense for the OP to try large prints in an economical way. The truth is, unless he starts with smaller prints, I think he'll be frustrated with the issues he encounters at the size he wants to print. Offering work-arounds for costlier options is hardly "hillbilly". In his case it's common sense.
    I hear you and I don't necessarily disagree but I also know that when I started printing a bit over a year ago, I tried the less costlier things and it got exhausting at times to not get what I wanted out of my prints. Once I realized that the right tools like a $200 Jobo 3063 drum and a motor base would produce flawless, consistent and beautiful prints that I could sell and I would enjoy the process far more, the term cut to the chase made me never want to cheap out on the process ever again.

    We are all different, I do this for a living and want pro results every single time...

  3. #43

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    32
    Thanks again for the very helpful suggestions. I have a bit to think about with the several different options. Right now I'm trying to acquire a Beseller 23c regular and will need to use one of the alternative mounting solutions mentioned here.

    I will definitely, of course, be working my way up to probably 20x20 for now, or a similar size. Actually, I don't even know the standard printing size for 6x6 at the moment. But I would like to be printing around at least 20x20 for an upcoming collection I hope to show in local galleries.

    Those garden/Ikea trays are a really great sounding option.

    That syphoning method sounds like a good option, but I was a little lost on the description. I'm sure it want't the posters fault, but as I mentioned, I am mechanically illiterate to a great degree; which makes this whole project quite a challenge.

    I know most people love working with Jobo's, but I actually don't like working with Jobo's and motors much (even if i had the money to spend) since I like handling the print for some reason. I used that method for developing 8x10 negs for a short time and soon went back to tray development which i mush preferred simply because i like handling the film/print.

  4. #44
    eddie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,419
    Images
    214
    Something like this might make siphoning easier:
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...32-231428091-2

  5. #45
    richard ide's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Markham, Ontario
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,215
    Before I got in to business making enlargements etc., someone gave me a roll of 42" paper. My darkroom was 48 x 72. I could turn my enlarger head horizontal and enlarge on to a wall outside the door. I made 30 x 40 prints and developed them by sticking the print to a wet tile wall above the bath tub. I developed, stopped, and fixed prints with sponges and washed the prints in the bath tub. Really easy and no real cost.
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?

  6. #46

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    32
    Very nice Richard. I like the sound of that, although I won't have a bathroom to work in. Still, I know I could figure out a similar option. But I am leaning towards the single tray syphoning method.

    Also, I just decided, after looking at paper sizes readily available, that I am going to aim to print 40x40, or 42x42 (Same thing essentially). Since the rolls come in 42.5x33. The cost of the FB paper is very reasonable. I am going to start out printing 20x20. Then move up to some cheap Arista VC 42x33 roll. Then, I will make my final prints on some 42x33 FB paper.

    I'm now thinking vertical projection will be impossible with this size and I will need a horizontal set-up.

    I have the space fortunately, even for the large tray. So, that is great. I know jumping right into 20x20 might be a little stretch, but those are all just practice sheets (10 sheets). Then, I will do a whole roll of 42x33 solely for practice. I think this is very sufficient. As I said before, I don't need "perfect" results. But, I am not planning on dodging and burning much, if at all, so that is another difficulty out of the way. Also, I will only be printing one size to make it more simple for me (42x42).

    I am considering making some simple frames myself, but I wonder if the cost savings will be worth it considering that I will need to buy all of the tools to start. I really like the idea, and I don't think it would be too time consuming to make a simple frame.

  7. #47

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by richard ide View Post
    Before I got in to business making enlargements etc., someone gave me a roll of 42" paper. My darkroom was 48 x 72. I could turn my enlarger head horizontal and enlarge on to a wall outside the door. I made 30 x 40 prints and developed them by sticking the print to a wet tile wall above the bath tub. I developed, stopped, and fixed prints with sponges and washed the prints in the bath tub. Really easy and no real cost.
    So you literally just stuck the print to the wall without any kind of fasteners, just moisture?

  8. #48
    richard ide's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Markham, Ontario
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,215
    Yes. Sticks like it was glued on.
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?

  9. #49
    M Carter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by eddie View Post
    Those Dillings are a great idea. I've used similar under-bed storage items for printing. Hard to beat the IKEA price, but check Home Depot and Lowe's, too.
    Oh, believe me I have! There's one box that's fairly big, but about twice the $$ of the Ikea. Of course, Ikea's are sparse compared to the big home centers. But you can get MEATBALLS AND SAUCE at Ikea!

  10. #50

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    32
    thank you all very much. I'm planning to do 40x40 prints now, so I will definitely be going with the wall mount. I just got a Beseller 23c XLiii with dichro head, and a rodagon f/4. I'm wondering what lensboard will work? Any other pointers are aprreciated!

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin