Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,288   Posts: 1,535,347   Online: 768
      
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 39
  1. #11
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,222
    Images
    12
    George: I'm gonna add that to my shopping list also.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,622
    I used plug-and-play strip LEDS from Superbrightleds with one of their pulse width modulator dimmers (also plug and play for dummies). Very cheap. These particular reds peak at 626nm. Obviously there is an emission spectrum around that but I didn't do a CD-type test because I knew I was going to use them behind a Kodak #1/#2 safelight filter anyway as this project was initially strictly intended to be a super-safe DIY safelight for ortho films. But I ended up expanding the project (documented somewhere on here) to a "mark II" version in which the board with the red LEDS could be swapped out for one with warm-white LEDS (same type of strips from Superbrightleds) and then the red safelight filter is swapped for an OC which I use for paper. Fun little project. I tested safe times out to 30 minutes with a few materials (way longer than I'd need) and stopped there. Didn't bother going longer but it might be fun one day to see how long. For people with more soldering/wiring skills Superbright sells component LEDS that peak at 660nm, which is obviously preferable.

  3. #13
    clayne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Francisco, CA | Kuching, MY | Jakarta, ID
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,838
    Images
    57
    Quote Originally Posted by David Brown View Post
    As discussed in this thread: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/1...9-99-safe.html

    The LED in question is this one: http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...60-degree/440/ It may or may not be suitable for your use in Australia, however.
    The superbrightled.com models I've always used were deep red ones with an array of LEDs (like 16-30, can't remember) with "wide" dispersal.

    Actually, I just found the 2009 invoice in email:

    Quantity: 2
    Product: E27-x24 LED bulb $ 7.95 (each)
    Options: Red Narrow 15 Degree

    Quantity: 2
    Product: E27-x24 LED bulb $ 7.95 (each)
    Options: Red Wide 100 degree


    SUBTOTAL: 31.80
    SHIPPING: 5.00 US Mail (Estimated)
    TOTAL: 36.80


    These have always been perfectly safe and throw out a good amount of light. I used the wide and narrow at the same time, bouncing off a highish ceiling. It looks like this thing:

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...base/429/1445/

    But in red. Not sure they sell it anymore.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  4. #14
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,222
    Images
    12
    Ebay 251062344308 just arrived; it's sold as a Red LED in E27 base; 85-265V 3W, absolutely no markings on the case or packaging. Has cheap-looking metallic fins up the sides of it and a hemispherical opaque white dome; I think it's meant to look a little like one of the premium very-high-power bulbs that have the fins there for heatsinking.

    The surprise: it's actually an RGB LED and comes with an IR remote control that allows you to set the colour or colour-cycling/flashing modes as well as dim it! For $4 shipped. WTF.

    The CD test is hard to do because the reflection of the light is pretty big, so the spectrum doesn't separate well. But it definitely reaches up into red/green territory a little.

    The real failing of this bulb (for safelight use!) is that when powered up it goes into colour-cycle mode at full brightness and you MUST use the remote if you want it to stay on red. Construction is also horrific; you can see the PCB waving around inside the case supported only by a couple of wires.

  5. #15
    clayne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Francisco, CA | Kuching, MY | Jakarta, ID
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,838
    Images
    57
    Hah. Use SBLED for LED bulbs.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  6. #16
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,222
    Images
    12
    I'd consider SBLED but they don't seem to sell an affordable, low-power (<5W) 240V red LED in E27 base.

    Browsing through SBLED, I find this. The one I just received from eBay appears to be either that exact same bulb or a cheap clone of it. The remote is absolutely identical.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Live Free or Die
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,377
    Images
    88
    I have a Petzl red LED head light that I use to augment room safelights. It works well for "task" lighting, and doing things like monitoring lith prints when I leave my overhead safelights off.
    It seems like the particular one I have is no longer a current model, so testing of what's available would be needed.

  8. #18
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,222
    Images
    12
    I did some safelight testing tonight with Arista paper and the 1.8W red LED that arrived first from eBay. It's OK at 16s but fails at only 32s of exposure.

    I tested again with two layers of rubylith over the front of the lamp and it passes at 512s (about 8:30) with pre-flashed paper. I didn't bother testing any longer than that because a) I'm impatient and b) I never have paper out that long.

    The thing is so bright that it's impossible to compose in the easel with it on, because it completely washes out the projected image. Really, incredibly bright, with perfect visibility into the darkest corners of the darkroom; probably a good 6 stops brighter than the 3-LED bike light I was using. I'm going to have to rig up a switch or something, maybe some black tape across the front to dim it by a stop or two.

  9. #19
    MattKing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Delta, British Columbia, Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    12,276
    Images
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    I did some safelight testing tonight with Arista paper and the 1.8W red LED that arrived first from eBay. It's OK at 16s but fails at only 32s of exposure.

    I tested again with two layers of rubylith over the front of the lamp and it passes at 512s (about 8:30) with pre-flashed paper. I didn't bother testing any longer than that because a) I'm impatient and b) I never have paper out that long.

    The thing is so bright that it's impossible to compose in the easel with it on, because it completely washes out the projected image. Really, incredibly bright, with perfect visibility into the darkest corners of the darkroom; probably a good 6 stops brighter than the 3-LED bike light I was using. I'm going to have to rig up a switch or something, maybe some black tape across the front to dim it by a stop or two.
    Can you bounce it off of a ceiling or some other diffusing reflector?
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  10. #20
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,222
    Images
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    Can you bounce it off of a ceiling or some other diffusing reflector?
    It's already hiding behind the speaker on the top shelf pointing away from the work area. It has to bounce off at least two walls already before it can reach the paper!

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin